Iceland

The northernmost island state of Europe was given the name “Iceland”, while the more northerly island on foreign maps is known as “Greenland”, but in fact the opposite is true. Greenland is 90 percent covered by ice – the glacier, while Iceland is full of all shades of green… Icelanders also believe that numerous Icelandic trees, shrubs, rocks and waterfalls are home to elves who look after nature. And on the following pages I have for you a proof that there is really something magical about Iceland…

Hidden people

My friend Vierka and I have been planning to visit this magical country where all the scenes from Game of Thrones behind the Wall were filmed for several months. Very rarely in the world you can find a country that is so little populated, with almost untouched nature and populations that treat their environment with uncommon respect. According to legend, elves (fairies and goblins) live all over Iceland and the inhabitants of this island state know them under the name of Huldufolk, in translation hidden people. Icelanders consider elves to be good-hearted and helpful beings, although mostly only children can see them. But if you get angry with them, hidden people can call you bad luck. Not only the people of Iceland, but even the Icelandic authorities are trying to treat the elves well. For example, in 2013, thanks to a group of activists from Friends of Lava, the construction of the highway was suspended so that the hidden people would have time to move out of their natural dwellings. The activists have managed to get thousands of Icelanders on their side. The faith in the elves here is so widespread that road constructions are always designed to avoid rocks and boulders in which little folks have their hidden places and no owner dares to disturb similar dwellings on their land. In Reykjavik, there is even an Elvish school where students learn about elves’ unions, and recently, in addition to Christianity, the pagan religion, a belief in natural forces, has been recognized as the official religion of the country…

Ready…

(Car selection)

At the last moment, my friend Veronika joins me and Vierka to save us – two very bad drivers from a disaster on the road. In Iceland you can’t do it without a car. Organized bus tours are not cheap at all and the car means also a freedom! Renting a car here is much more expensive than in other European countries, but the sooner you book a car, the less it will cost you. We have started looking for the car almost at the last minute so the 4×4 Kia ​​Sportage cost us around 140 Euros per day, and I really have searched for the best option. Finally, the Icelandic company Blue Car rental has won. Off-road 4×4 driving is a must in Iceland, especially if you are planning a trip during the winter months or inland. But if you plan just Diamond Ring road trip around the island along the coast (the Diamond Ring contains almost all the important “must see” places) and visit the country in the summer months, you can do it even with a regular car. Roads (except inland) are well maintained in Iceland. The maximum speed limit does not exceed 90 km / h. In order to make our hikes more cheerful and to reduce our costs a bit, for first three days we take one Ukrainian colleague Oksana with us…

Steady…

(How much will it cost)

Iceland is a very, very, very expensive country, but it is still worth all the money. And honestly, I wish it was even more expensive. Recently, Iceland is gaining popularity and I am beginning to worry that soon all the beauties of nature are ruined by crowds of tourists. At least, the high price ensure that only those who really care about nature and know its true value are the one who will pay for a trip. Of course, you can go to Iceland without millions in your pocket. But, it’s important to plan well in advance and book the car with accommodation as soon as possible. Be sure to give up eating in restaurants and sleeping in hotels. A cheaper alternative are private apartments, guest houses offered by Airbnb. Another option is camping (outside the official camp camping is prohibited), although the camp is also not the cheapest alternative. All four of us are stewardesses, so we save enough on airfares, but we prefer a solid bed against the sleeping bag and a warm food from the restaurant against canned food, so again we spend more money somewhere else. The whole weekly stay per person will eventually cost us up to 1500 Euros. More tips when and how to plan a trip to Iceland can be found at the end of this article.

P.S.1: Customer service in Iceland gets at least five stars from me. Wherever we find ourselves, everywhere is extremely clean and cozy, everywhere we feel welcomed. Whatever I need to change in our reservations, I receive an email response within five minutes and everything is arranged within ten minutes! Iceland works better and more reliable than a Swiss watch!

Go!

(When to travel)

We fly to Iceland from Vienna via Berlin with Air Berlin. At Keflavik International Airport we pick up Oksana, then our rented Kia and we are looking for the Steinar Guesthouse in nearby Grindavík, where the famous Blue Lagoon Spa is located. Since Oksana can only stay with us for the first three days, we do not want to move too far from the airport and Grindavík has an excellent location. It is close to the capital Reykjavik, the Blue Lagoon and the Golden Circle, the most visited part of Iceland. In winter, the northern port is said to be a beautiful observation of the northern lights, but not in the summer months, when the sun sets very late and rises too early. But long summer days have their advantage – you have much more time to explore! In winter, the days are short and gray, everything is under ice and snow, and the outside is freezing, but the night sky is full of unreal colors. Summer months are without aurora, the prices are much higher, a way more tourists, but the days are longer, colorful, warmer. Although, in the summer, apparently often rains. Iceland is beautiful in any weather, and the fog, cloud and sun on the sky have also some magic on the photos…  Iceland is one of the safest countries in the world, as we see the very first day. I have notified the owners of our guesthouse that we would arrive late at night. The manager replied: “It’s all right, the front door will be open and you will find the key to your room next to the note with your name.” When we park in front of the Steinar Guesthouse, all house is sleeping and in the shared kitchen we find a note on the fridge saying: “Help yourself! Whatever you find in the kitchen belongs to everyone!” Finally, my name is found on a door leaf on a separate part of the house and the key simply lies in the lock! I call it unbelievable trust in good of people…

Day 1

Golden Circle

Early in the morning, we are awakened by bright sunrays. Today it looks like it!s going to be a beautiful warm day. Modest breakfast from Veronica’s resources follow, – it was found in her suitcase thanks to Veronica’s caring mother. And so we are ready for the first trip. On the travel plan which I prepared before the holiday stands the Golden Circle. I am the main organizer of the trip because I enjoy doing research, studying travel materials and tips from tripadvisor, all of it even more so when my friends rely on me and leave it on me. The crew in our Kia looks like this: on the seat of driver is Veronika – a pirate of roads. Her main task is to focus on the road and not to kill us. In the honorary place beside the driver is seat of mine as the main navigator, planner and not very excited DJ, while Vierka and Oksana take two rear seats – our main snack distributors who will never forget to remind us that sometimes we need to stop for a pee pee break. No one takes a role of sleeper. All four of us are sitting with their nose glued to the window and at every moment we shout: “Woooow! Beautiful! Wueeeeeey!” The scenery behind the window at every corner takes our breath away. Babe I Think I Have Found The Place For Our Future Farm…

The first stop is Thingvellir National Park, where two different tectonic plates meet resulting in a massive crack line. They are said to move apart about two centimeters each year! The park is beautiful!

Another stop on the Golden Ring is Skálholt, about 45 km away from Thingvellir. It used to be the largest Viking settlement in Iceland, but today there is nothing to see. We walk around the place and continue straight to Geysir. The spring, which used to push water up to 60m, is already silent, but gave name to all other geysers in the world. Today, it is just a hot bubbling pond, like many around him. However, do not try to soak your hand in some of the ponds, as you could get a nasty burn! The earth from which steams in many places looks really magical, like from another planet. Just a short distance from the original Geysir there is the Strokkur Geysir, which keeps erupting water up to 20m at regular 20 minute intervals.

Next to the main parking is a hotel with a canteen, where we decide to stop for a lunch. Iceland’s traditional vegetable soup (something like our stew) costs about 12 Euros, but the bowl is bottomless. You can ask for a full refill for several times, along with bread and a pitcher of water. The last stop of the day is the Gullfos waterfall. For this occasion we take out our raincoats, because I read that around the waterfalls one can get a proper shower. Although Gullfos is huge and the water really splashes on all sides, the wind is not blowing so much so water cannot reach the pedestrian path. The rays of the sun break on drops of water and create a beautiful rainbow. For a while we just sit on the rocks and enjoy the atmosphere. Girls who have seen Niagara Falls claim that Gullfos is much better…

Day 2

Blue Lagoon

Today our plan is just a nice rest day. In the afternoon we have reserved entry to the most famous natural swimming pool Blue Lagoon Spa. It is perhaps the most popular locality in Iceland. The lagoon is actually a seawater lake that is heated as a result of underground geothermal activity. Located in the middle of the lava fields, visitors can laze in the white mud and bath in water with a pleasant temperature of 40 degrees all year round. In addition, water has healing effects in case of any skin problems. Its water vapor, in turn, serves the state to generate electricity and heat water. Attention, tickets can not be purchased on spot, admission must be booked online – www.bluelagoon.com. However, you can stay in the spa from that hour you booked the entry for until closing time. The basic package includes a traditional white mud mask. The spa complex also includes a lava-built cave sauna, a restaurant, a bar and a cosmetic lava shop.

Restaurant for the Vikings

As soon as we have enough of water and start to feel really hungry, we hit the speed limit with our car and head to the nearby Viking village – Fjörukráin with the only true Viking restaurant in the country. Staff wear traditional viking costumes and sing Viking songs, and in the menu we find such Vikings’ specialties as the ram’s head! Let’s try (at least) traditional Viking appetizer, which includes a sample of several original Viking specialties: pickled whales and shark meat, or ram’s testicles… Ugh, I’ve never eaten anything more disgusting! Until now, I can feel that nasty, salty taste on my tongue… Luckily, not the whole menu is from vVikings’ table and many other specialties are cooked in nowadays modern way. The catch of the day or thick creamy soup from that more modern part of the menu really taste delicious!

Day 3

Waterfalls and Black Beach

We get up again early in the morning, tickled by the sun’s rays, and sit back again in our Kia. This time, however, we are heading south. The first planned stop is the Seljalandsfoss Waterfall with a cave, located near the main road. But even driving here is an experience. Everywhere we enjoy beautiful natural scenery, lonely farms with horse-runs alternate volcanic moonscape. By the way, Icelandic horses have a thick shaggy hair like donkeys and fringes falling to the forehead, while sheep in Iceland always walk in threes, and often stroll along the road as confidently as the whole road belongs to them. You can walk behind the Seljalandsfoss waterfall, and right now, when we have left our raincoats in our car, we get a proper waterfall shower. In my opinion, the most beautiful shower ever!

After about another 20 minutes in the car on a scenic road around wooden houses with grass roofs (elven houses?) we arrive at another Skógafoss Waterfall, one of the most photographed places in Iceland. It is really powerful with two magical rainbows! Up on the hill above the waterfall there is a beautiful view of the Icelandic hills. And next to the waterfall, there is another tourist canteen where we have another bottomless nutritious Icelandic soup… Do you know this waterfall from the last game of Thrones?

On the route in between Skógafoss Waterfall and the village of Vík there is another interesting stop – the wreckage of US Navy aircraft – Douglas Super DC3. Sólheimasandur has been here for around for 40 years and it is a popular tourist destination in recent years. Its location used to be an question-mark, but nowadays, in the age of the Internet, the location of the aircraft is no longer a secret. On the road between the waterfall and the village Vík (about 15 km away from) where many cars are parked, park your car too. From there you need to walk and a good piece! A 4-kilometer-long, dusty, rocky path to the coast leads you to the wreck of the plane. The plane lies behind a large black dune, so you won’t see it until the last minute. It is a rough windy terrain, but there is no need to give up. It is said that the plane crashed due to bad weather. Soldiers for bad weather conditions did not hit the base, and then poorly switched to another fuel tank. But they all survived the fall, and the farmer to whom the land where the aircraft crashed belonged earned good money. Apparently he was using the fuel of the plane to refuel his tractor and so the wreck was supplying him for the whole year! Today, a lot of curious tourists and photographers stroll around the plane, sometimes quite difficult to win a good photo position as the place is very popular. Then you have to either be patient or come early in the morning, or at night when only the aurora is illuminating the sky. But sunsets are the most popular…

The last stop today is the village of Vík, respectively. black beach with black rocks and black volcanic sand Reynisfara. Above the sea are three Reynisdrangar rock towers (troll rocks). According to legend, these rocks are three trolls who stoned on the spot when they did not manage to hide from the rising sun… The sun sets and we still have a long way back to Keflavik. We have to drive Oksana back to the airport. And in front of us there is the last night in Grindavik…

Day 4

Glacier Lagoon

Today we drive all the way to the south of the island, to the Vatnajökull National Park. It is not only an interesting national park and a popular camping site for adventurers, but also the largest glacier in Europe, which stretches to a width of 150km. When you are driving around, you often can see its ice way between the mountain ridges. In 1996, a 4 km long crack appeared underneath the surface of the glacier and within two days the steam burst up to a height of 10 meters above the glacier. A few days later, the ice broke completely, an enormous influx of water pouring out, carrying bridges, roads, and a huge pieces of ice. Camp Skaftafell, part of the Vatnajökull National Park, is a popular area for hikers, especially in summer. There are many different trekking routes. The less difficult and shorter routes include a hike to the black Svartifoss waterfall, where we are heading to. The waterfall got its name after black basalt rocks. Admission to the camp / park is, of course, not free. Price depends on length of your stay…

After leaving the National Park, we continue driving east. As we are passing arid moonscape and the deserted rocks, we start to think that nothing can surprise us anymore, but Iceland get us once again. A turquoise blue glacier lagoon with swimming seals emerges behind the moon hills with beautiful background of a light purple sky! We have just arrived at the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. This extraordinary photogenic natural phenomenon is located on the main road no.1, at a point where the the lake flows to the sea separated by a small bridge. Pieces of icebergs float in the lagoon, some of which can reach a height comparable to skyscrapers! And among them swim seals! It is an incredible experience to watch this scenario. You are suddenly in another world. And whoever has enough money in their pocket, can pay a boat round-trip between seals and icebergs…

Full of experiences, we are heading east to Djupivogur, a picturesque village above the fjords. The road leads over steep serpentines and if we set out earlier, it would be a beautiful sight, but the day is turning dark, we are running out of gas, we do not know how far we are, because of the serpentines twisting like anaconda and everywhere not a one living soul. Until we finally arrive safely at Brunes Guesthouse, where we have booked a cottage for an overnight, we can relieve. Luckily, the manager calm us down by saying that the nearest gas station is only a few kilometers away. Uff. We leave refueling for the morning…

Day 5

Egilsstadir

In a heated cottage we sleep so well that we can not get out of bed for a long time. When we put today’s goal – Askja Volcano in our navigation, it shows a meaningless 16-hour drive, although the volcano should not be more than 150 km away from our cottage. Until we solve this mystery, we prefer to change the plan operatively. Anyway we feel too tired and too full of impressions for another adventure to the volcano. We just decide to move further east, to Egilsstadir, where we can relax and recharge. Outside there is still incredible sunny weather, the fifth day in row. It does not fit with what I heard about the Icelandic weather. Most of my friends’ photos from Iceland are gloomy, because a cloudless week in Iceland is rather an exceptional thing. However, the weather is incredible this week. For another night we are staying in a very cozy guesthouse Olga. We can’t wait for a good shower! Egilsstadir is not one of the most beautiful towns in Iceland, but it is a good base for trips to the mountains and hidden hot springs and baths all year round. The coast of Iceland is also home to adorable birds – Atlantic Puffins that remind me of penguins a bit. However, they are already flying to warmer countries this time before winter comes. But for today we are satisfied with good lunch. For this purpose we check Tripadvisor and choose the restaurant, which is located in a beautiful green place about 39km away from the city. Instead of a la carte menu, they offer a buffet, with a menu that varies according to part of the day. Lunch is served at noon, tea and cookies at five in the evening and dinner later in the day. And so we have a chance to try several healthy Icelandic courses at an affordable price… In the evening we go for a stroll around the town to look for some sexy Vikings, but the city is quite empty…

Day 6

Way to Hell

Hell, or Víti in Icelandic, is the name of the crater, which after the last eruption of Askja volcano is still warm enough to bath in it. It smells like sulfur or like hell, but it has a beautiful sky blue color. But the way to crater, however, is kind of hell. Navigation in our car shows 16 hours, Google maps in my mobile 5 and a half, but our pirate of roads – Veronika will make it in 4 and a half hours! To the hell leads off-road F910 directly through the lava moonscape, where you barely can see a living soul. The journey require offroad strong vehicle. Do not even try without an 4×4 wheel car! It is prohibited anyway. In some places the road crosses the stream and bridges are not everywhere. In many places you simply have to cross the water and treacherous stones. Our luck is that it is not raining in Iceland for about six days in row so the stream is not as flooded as it can be. Our Kia is a 4×4 vehicle, but still it’s not a jeep! Just before we reach our final destination, the National Park Manager stops us: “Girls, how did you like the river crossing? Where are you heading?” We honestly admit that the river quite scared us and that we are planning to return via F88 to Akureyiri. “Well, girls, if you didn’t like the two river cross on the F910, the ones on the F88 will like you even less. They are much deeper, wider and more dangerous. I suggest you come back same way as you came here… ” Uff, same way up to Akureyiri means a journey at least 5 hours longer than we planned. But we are leaving the dilemma out of our heads, we will decide later, now we want to bath in the volcano! Under the crater is also a simple camp, where we pick up a hitchhiker who needs a drive closer to the crater. In the car we ask another piece of advice from him which way to go back. “Well, I’ve seen cars like yours going through river, but…” Bathing in the volcano wash away all our worries for a while. It’s a great feeling! The water in the crater is not completely hot, but it is not even cold, it smells of the sulfur a bit, but after a while we stop minding it…

And here we go, time to get back. We do not want to wander in the dark. As we approach the crossroads of F910 and F88, Veronika goes for eights: “It’s my lucky number! And I’m not going to spend five more hours in the car… ” Later on the road, we don’t meet a single living soul. We successfully cross the first water ditch, then the second (even ducks were swimming in it!), jumping out of enthusiasm. But I warn the girls that the manager mentioned three transits… Or just two? We would like to have all these dangerous crossings behind us. And here we go! We have been looking forward too early. Suddenly, a huge ditch of water, the widest and deepest we have gone through so far, lays in front of us. A string with colored flags marks a route where water is said to be the most shallow. Unfortunately, it is making it through its widest section. A white car similar to our Kia is parked in front of the ditch. Who knows how long have they been waiting for help? Do they hesitate wether to pass or return? Just like us… In few seconds, however, a huge off-road jeep shows up behind us and boldly starts crossing the water. The white car of our neighbors starts immediately following it. The jeep rides the water away and the white car easily passes safely after the jeep! “Veronika go after them! They show us the way!” Veronika, however, start panicking until it’s too late. Both the jeep and the white car are disappearing in the distance. We are hitting the horn to get the attention of the jeep. Luckily, he’s coming back. We try to convince its driver – the young guy – to take over and drive our car across the water. But he doesn’t want to take the risk. Water could go into the engine. “But the white car passed and it was same type…” we are insisting. “Yes, that is true, but it is still a risk …” Says the guy, the driver of the jeep. He just can give us tips how to follow him in the safest way: “Just as slowly as possible and in my steps.” When we get into the water, an alarm start beeping in the car. “Girls, fasten your seatbelts!” shouts Veronika. “These aren’t passports!” We shout back desperately. The parking sensors hit the water and are going crazy. Beep. Beep. Beep… But finally, we cross the river without any harm!!! What a glory!!!

For sure, the park caretaker did not mention four crossings, so we start celebrating. Our rescue jeep disappears in the distance far ahead. However, we celebrate only until we reach the next river ditch. As dangerous as the last one! And we feel trapped! We cannot even return without help. Trapped between two rivers. “We have to go through it, there is no other choice but just wait, I need pee first…” says Veronika and opens the car door. “Wait, there’s something behind us,” I stop her when I see a car in the rearview mirror. Suddenly a white big jeep shows up behind us with an elderly man with long white beard on driver seat… “Will you show me the way? Can I follow you across the river?” shouts Veronika. The old man just smiles back with understanding and nods his head. Thanks to the white jeep, we go through the last dangerous water obstacle on the road with no harm… Now tell me, isn’t it an incredible coincidence? Or was it some angel who sent us those two life-saving jeeps and a white car similar to ours that gave us courage to cross the river? During the whole four-hour drive, we did not meet a single vehicle, a single soul on the road, only at those two dangerous crossings, and only at the moment when we really needed them… Till now I have goosebumps when I remember our trip to Askja.

Just before sunset we enter the highway and before we reach Akureyiri we still have a time to stop at the falls of the gods – Godafoss. A sign that we are again closer to heaven, far away from hell… There is a beautiful drive leading to the waterfalls just around Lake Mývath where many tourists go camping and hike. Or you can go towards the town on the northern coast – Husavík, from where whales can often be seen. Unfortunately, we will not manage. On the road between Akureyri and the northern Dalvík along the coast of Eyjafjördur, there are also supposedly many of elven dwellings…

Day 7

Way home

We wake up in the beautiful and spacious modern apartment in Akureyri, which we have found on Airbnb. So far the most comfortable accommodation in Iceland. Outside, however, it is raining heavily, for the first time in our entire stay. Time to go home. Even the weather is already accompanying us. We have a great lunch in Kaffi Ilmur restaurant – a warm thick soup with a cake. Lunch buffets seem to be popular in Iceland. There is a simple drive along the main road across the west coast to the capital Reykjavík. The sightseeing of the city for heavy rain will be omitted, although I was looking forward to the 73m high tower of the Church Hallgrímskirkja, which is the most photographed symbol of the city. We must satisfy ourselves with a dinner at the Kaffi Vagnnin restaurant in the port area, where local dishes and fresh seafood are served. And after dinner just a trip to the airport and a long flight through Paris back to Abu Dhabi…

Important tips:

• In Iceland you pay with Icelandic crown, but you will not need cash at all. You can pay by card everywhere, even in parking lots and public toilets they have card machines!
• Prepare for humid weather in summer and temperatures around 15-18 degrees, while winters are freezing and snowy.
• If you come here to see the northern lights, choose a date in the winter months
• In summer, prices are higher and more tourists are everywhere, but days are longer and nature is more colorful
• Rent off-road car – the bigger, the better, especially if you’re planning a journey to inland (like Askja)
• Iceland is an expensive country. Although few Icelanders are truly remarkably wealthy, you will hardly see any signs of poverty. The standard of living throughout the country is relatively high. For us, however, this means clean streets but also high prices.
• Iceland, however, can be managed on lower budget. Plan in advance, choose guest houses, cabins, camps and private apartments over hotels and self-catering over eating out in restaurants.