Peru

Day at the airport

We are waiting at Madrid Airport. Me and my Slovak colleagues – Ivka and Veronika. We have four hours before our flight to Lima in Peru, if we get seats, of course. Iberia is desperately overbooked and we, as usual, travel on staff standby tickets. This means, we pay way less, but we only fly if there are some empty seats in airplane. Fully paying passengers go always first. Originally, we really should not have been here at all. We planned this holiday together, mainly because we were initially going to South Africa and Capetown. Peru was a spontaneous idea. Unlike South Africa, the Slovaks do not need any visas to Peru, just a return ticket, which shows that we are not going to stay in the country for more than 90 days. For us, the air hostesses who need to have their passport always ready, the obstructions around the visa requirements for South Africa have been a serious obstacle. In Peru, the rain season is currently in force, but we rely on our luck with the weather. Even in Iceland, we did not see a rain for a week! Excursions outside the main season also promise fewer people and lower prices… The popular 4-days long Inca Trail route to Machu Picchu is closed in February for service works like every year, but we have decided anyway to go there by train. As we are not backpackers, but more like princesses who need to bring six suitcases with them! 🙂 But do not take advantage of baggage alowance which says 23 kilos! While waiting at the airport, we are considering to continue from Peru to Bolivia, but it does not seem to happen. We need more time for transport, as we have to count with some reserve, as we travel on standby tickets… Happily, Iberia finally take us on the board and our trip to Peru can begin!

Night in Lima

When we arrive to Lima after 12 hours long flight, it’s night already. Just before the trip we booked hotel nearest to the airport so we can stratch our bodies in proper bed. At Lima airport, there is a service to book your hotel transfer and can be paid in dollars. It’s much more easy and reliable than looking for a taxi on the street. The trip to the hotel costs us about 10 $, and there is a new friend and personal chauffeur included. Our chauffeur Miguel is extremely friendly, funny and speaks English very well. We also use him the next morning when we return to the airport for our an hour flight to Cusco. And there it all really starts…

While in Lima it was hot and humid, Cusco has completely different air. Cold and alpine. The city of Cusco lies at an altitude of 4300 m.a.s.l., which is almost twice as high as our highest hill in Slovakia. Just breathing in Cusco is a problem. The air is fresh, but thin. Many people warned us in advance of possible altitude sickness – breathing problems, migraines, vomiting. Peruvians, however, have the proven medicine for it – coca candies! The plant, which is famous for cocaine production, is considered to be a universal medicine in Peru and it is valued over all medications. Peruvians use the leaves of coca not only for tea, but they make coca sweets and chewing gums as well. So we are well equipped with coca candies that we have bought at the airport. We manage the first hours in high altitude well enough…

Before our 10-days trip (almost 4 days we spend on transport), we booked a local tourist guide recommended by our colleague. If you are not that adventurer, a private guide to Peru is recommended. It’s much better than big group tours, you still feel like traveling on your own but with someone who knows the country very well. And it’s also very comfortable, we have a car, a personal driver and a guide in one. Thanks to Franco (Peru Best Holidays), we will later get to places where we could hardly get without him. In addition, we are better prepared for individual situations in Peru than we would be after reading tripadvisore tips. It saves time and energy. It’s not expensive (4 days of his guide service, including entrance fees and some meal costs us around 400 $ per person) and in one package you have also great informations about the country from the right hand. That we have chosen well, we know from the first moment when we are warmly welcomed at the airport. Franco will soon become our friend rather than just a guide. There’s a basket of snacks and coca candies waiting for us in his car… As Franco gradually finds out, the flight attendants are the biggest snack eater ever saw. 🙂

We do not waste a minute of our precious time and right after our arrival we are heading to our first scheduled destination. On the way in the car, we are again thankful for Franco. Certainly it is good to have an experienced chauffeur who is familiar in local conditions. As we learn from slightly sarcastic Franco, traffic rules are there just for suggestions! 🙂 When we arrive at Salineras de Maras (about 40 km from Cusco) in the middle of the mountains, we feel a bit disappointed. From the instagram pictures we know this place for a number of pastel-colored salt formations, but under our feet lies only thousands of muddy puddles. Well, rain season. I guess, in the dry season it looks much better. Fortunately, it’s not raining now, but the sun only glimps. Even in that short time, however, I was able to sunburn a single uncovered spot on my body – scruff of the neck! So be aware of the strong alpine sun! The surprise comes with new information. Salineras de Maras are actually brilliant salt evaporation ponds from the Inca times, gathering salty and mineralised water of hot natural springs which easily evaporate in dry season leaving in ponds the finest salt. This salt is then used in the most luxurious restaurants around the world. As I find out several times these days, Incas really knew what they were doing…

After Salineras de Maras we come to the village of Sacred Valley where the last Quechuans – the last pure (not mixed) descendants of the Incas live. We are invited for lunch, a local feast. And this is exactly the experience we would have been experienced without Franco. All Quechuans, like many other Peruvians, have sharp cheeks, cheeky eyes almost like Chinese, dark brown, gently reddish skin, deep harsh wrinkles and those eagle noses – completely similar to Condor‘s beak! I really enjoy watching these harsh faces that have seen so many years of simple life high in the mountains and hard work. The Quechuans are welcoming us with song, all dressed in their local colorful costumes. Multicolored ponchos over their shoulders can’t be missing, as well as high hats that have become part of their local clothing after the country was visited by the British. First they show us how they get yarn from the raw lama’s wool, using a tool similar to a wheelwright, as used in our village by our ancient moms. Then we learn how to get all the possible colors by using just natural raw materials. Herbs, lemon juice, indigo stones, or even the blood of cactus bugs for bright red. Then they are showing us how they cook dinner on hot stones and then buried under the ground. A local specialty is served – a guinea pig and a several kinds of potatoes. While we know about two types of potatoes in Slovakia (and it is really a potato country), there are about 3000 kinds of them in Peru! Potatoes along with the quinoa, which also grows at every corner here, is simply one of the most basic and important food of the Peruvians. And that guinea pig? In our country it is a pet, here in Peru delicacy for special occasions. On the other hand, we eat rabbits in Slovakia, so there is no space to be shocked. I try the meat, but actually I don’t like it very much. It’s full of skin and fat, exactly what I do not like about meat…

After a special lunch we continue to Moray, Inca remains. These are special circle terraces at an incredible height of 3500 m.a.s.l.! Intervention of aliens? According to Franco, once again, the brilliant work of smart Incas. Up to two-thirds of the land in Peru is covered by a wild jungle, the rest are mountains. Only small piece of an arable land but such a great Empire as Incas Empire was needed to be fed somewhow. Terraces high in the hills are nothing more than an agricultural experiment that really worked! Nowadays, terraces of Sacred Valley area are not used for agricultural purposes anymore because they are classified as Incas herritage, but the government recently has allowed, at least part of terraces to be reused for crop production… The day is long and around Moray, I finally begin to feel what altitude sickness really means. Fortunately our Franco is well prepared for everything. He carries a bottle of special Andean medicine – coca leaves infused in Florida water (a kind of alcohol). You inhale the infusion into your lungs till you feel little burning pain. After a while, however, I really start to feel better, even the headache is gone! After a trip, Franco takes us to a small guest house in the colonial style named Casa del Fierro, where we stay for our first night in Cusco. The rooms are beautiful, the blankets on the beds are warm and soft, which fits perfectly. I would never expect that in the middle of summer it could be so cold. Before bedtime we have a cup of tea with coca leaves, a hot shower and then sleep like a babies. We don’t even have a time to be frustrated by very slow reception of wifi…

Al paça is a chubby lama

We wake up before six in the morning, quick check-out, we stow our luggage in the guest house‘s stock, and again back to Franco’s car, which is again freshly equipped with a new snack. But when in those alpine heights digests so well! First, we experience beautiful views over the Sacred Valley, then we visit the Lamas farm and after other Incas remains in Pizaq. At the farm we feed cute peruvian lamas and al pacas and learn to recognize them from each other. Both may have a longer or shorter coat, some even reminds us Bob Marley’s dreadlocks, but the fundamental difference between them is that the lama has longer neck and legs. Al paca is actually a more chubby version of the lama! Animals are, however, very useful – they carry a load like our donkeys, they give a wool for ponchos, milk, and they can also serve as an dinner…

In Pizaq, we find other farm terraces and also tombs, where people were buried in an embryo position, symbolizing a return to Mother Earth (Pacha Mama). In what way did you come to the world, go back to the gods. The corps of Peruvian ancestors ere mummified so precisely that some archaeologists did not want to believe they had met hundreds years old mummy and not just a sleeping man! They mummies were also buried together with their treasures similar to those in Egypt! Unbelievable similarity! The greatest mystery, however, is the huge stone wall! Huge pieces of stones with boulders are carefully cutted to fit together tightly without mortar like puzzle. There are cutted so precisely like there was used laser and not just hands. We still do not understand how they were able to transfer them from a quarry to a designated location (even with today’s modern technologies we are not capable of it), not yet processing them with that accuracy!

After lunch, we’re going to one of the most famous places in the world. Since there are absolutely no roads to Machu Picchu, there are only two ways how to get there: either a 4-day walk through Inca Trail or by a train. We decide to take a train, of course. Here again, there are two possibilities – either a classic train that runs almost every 15 minutes (and is always full) or a luxurious train with glass roofs and high prices (from 300 $?!). Budget only allows us the first option. We are crosings the beautiful valley on the borders with jungle, so the journey itself is an experience. For sure book the seats near the window! Coca tea is served among with the view. Franco explains us that some communities on the Inca Trail are so inaccessibly high and cut off from the world that the only supplies are those by humans. Some Peruvians are so strong that they can carry 50-kilos heavy loads up the hill for hours in this high altitude. Unbelievable! No animal can do the same. And as Franco says, not even American top bodybuilders could manage. They tried to swap with Peruvian suppliers for an experience but were not able to carry the load not even for 10 minutes! Altitude really requires more than just muscles and strong lungs. Only recently the government has ordered that the load can not exceed 30 kilos in order to protect these suppliers from abuse. And the secret of Peruvian strength? Chewing coca leaves! When Americans discovered these encouraging effects of coca leaves, they immediately invented a drink that still belongs to the most popular in the world. That’s right, I’m talking about Coca Cola. But nowadays coca leaves have been replaced by sugar. The Peruvians also have their own yellow colored Inca Cola which tastes even more artificial! 🙂 When we arrive to the town of Machu Picchu, we still have to climb few stairs up to the hotel. Modest conditions, little space, stucked toilet but better wifi! 🙂 Relax and then just a nice dinner. We first taste delicious dark Peruvian beer, then a traditional quinoa soup. Yummy! And finally Pisco sour drink made of the national Pisco liqueur…

MACHU PICCHU

We get up early in the morning, another long day full of experiences in front of us! Already before the six in the morning we are waiting at the bus stop to avoid an endless queue. Since the town of Machu Picchu has not yet built a cable car, there are two ways to get to the hills where one of the wonders of the world is hidden from the sight of people: either by thousands of stairs or conveniently by bus. Of course, for the price of 24 $ we choose the second option. We still want to save our energy on the monument itself. And we did well! When I see the endless stairs and half-dead people climbing up from the bus window, I know we have decided right. When the bus reaches the Citadel’s gate, there is a thick morning mist in Machu Picchu, but fortunately it still does not rain, and the fog gradually falls and falls off with the first sunlight. Franco is enriching us with new knowledge. Why somebody did make so much effort to build an entire city so high in the mountains where it is hidden from people’s eyes? According to several assumptions, it could have been an university of secret arts for the chosen ones, so it had to be well hidden. But it’s all just speculation, and the real reason remains a mystery. The Machu Picchu Citadel, after the extinction of the Incas was rediscovered in 1911 thanks to the Professor Hiram Bingham, who travelled to Peru to search for the last living Incas. He went to Peru looking for the Incas, but he found their treasure… In the Citadel we meet again with the precise Incas architecture. Seems Incas used to believe in wisdom that „Simplicity is beauty” and “Less is more”. Although they had enough sources of gold, they preferred pure lines rather than rich golden decorations. They found gold as just useless fancy toy, and did not mind to give all the golden bricks to Spanish conquerors. But it was Spanish greed for the gold and the many other enemies among their people (Incas were a family of kings and noblemen) what destroyed them in the end…

Franco‘s speech is followed by a light lunch. Our guide brought us to try two kinds of fruit I have not heard about before: Grenadilla – a kind of passion fruit and perhaps the best fruit I have ever eaten and Chiri moya (something like mango) – a miraculous fruit that cures the cancer with high success! After lunch, Franco give us free time to enjoy the Citadel. We have time for a lot of photos and then little hike tour up to the Sun Gate. This “lighter” hiking takes about 40 minutes, but our reward is a beautiful view over Machu Picchu ruins below us. It is the Sun Gate what those peole who refused to travel by train and decided to go by foot across Inca Trail, see as first when finally reach Machu Picchu. When we get down to the town in the afternoon, Franco is waiting for us with another good lunch at one of the local restaurants. Again, quinoa soup and other local delicacies are served. And on three o’clock in the afternoon we are heading by train back to Cusco, where we once again stay for overnight in the Casa del Fierro bed and breakfast.

Rainbow mountains

In front of us is the most difficult day at all! We have to get up at 4 in the morning, because today we are going to Rainbow mountains (Apa Vinicunca), and thus to the highest place in my life so far – 5200 m.a.sl.! There the snow line begins, so I hope that instead of 7 rainbow colors we won’t see just one white. Rainbow Mountains are very treacherous. There are incredible colors in the promotional photos, but in reality, only few mortals are lucky enough to make their own similar pictures. Up there, it is very cold, very foggy and most unpredictable. The weather changes every five minutes, and it can happen that after a few hours of climbing up you will reach the place and the rainbow mountains nowhere! They are hidden beneath thick fog, which will happen to us as well. But let’s start from the beginning… First we have to drive for about 3 hours through a beautiful valley. After sunrise, the weather looks quite well. On the way, incredible sceneries are set. In some places, the slope is so steep that I’m again grateful for our experienced Franco as a driver. We stop in one village for breakfast, where we stock up with warm woolen sweaters, hats and gloves. Up there, it is going to be really cold and our six big suitcases do not contain anything really warm (when princesses pack for tour). Later, we stop our car due to two adorable local boys. Their red sun-burned cheeks and colorful caps took our attention. We take pictures of them and thank them with all the sweets and snacks we can find in the car.

After 3 hours, we park on the spot, further we have to go by foot. The sun is still up on the horizon and the sweaters are too heavy so far. Franco is helping us to prepare for the hike with hiking sticks, coca leaves for chewing (containing many minerals) and Andean medicine. The path does not look like very steep so I’m asking myself: „That’s the famous most difficult hike?“ After a couple of meters, however, I’m struggling to catch a breath, the altitude is making its job and the hill seems to be steeper. The half-hour long trail eventually takes several hours, because after every few steps we have to take a break to catch breath, replace the coca leaves and inhale Andean medicine. I look at the Peruvians who walk around us up and down with horses that carry less fit tourists. The horses and the Peruvians actually serve instead of the cable car. We decide to climb on our own. However, later only deep dose of self-defense will help me to resist to take one of the Peruvian horses passing by. Even the weather gets worse with each step. Strength decreases, layers of clothing increase. And when finally F I N A L L Y we reach the goal, Rainbow mountains are covered in small snow storm. The wind is so strong and icy that is hard to pose for pictures. We have to wait for a while for the fog to move away. There is a lot of tourists besides us, no one wants to give up after that difficult hike. Where do the Peruvians take the energy to run up and down several times daily? The way back is, fortunately, much easier, even the weather gets better. However, I am happy with the fact that there are still heavy clouds hanging over the place where the Rainbow Mountains should be. Later we have lunch again in the same village, from where we took the sweaters and caps. And later in the evening? After a busy day we fall asleep so fast that I do not even remember there was some evening…

Cusco

I’m glad we decided not to travel to Lake Titicaca straight away, but we are going to have one relaxing day in Cusco. We need it after yesterday. All the morning we spend in our rooms catching up on social networks. 🙂 Afternoon Franco takes us for a small friendly tour around the city, which is for free. We are walking through scenic stone streets, where we admire another Incas remains and their brilliant stone work, we also meet one toothless old woman in local costume with her al paca. For a few change, we are allowed to take a picture of her. For me all these old ladies with their toothless smile, a wrinkled face and a wide eagle’s nose look like from a fairy tale. For lunch, Franco take us to the Limbus restaurant, which has an amazing view over the city. This is the first time I try local lemonade Chicha morada, which is made from black corn juice, pineapple and cinnamon. You have to try! After lunch, Franco takes us to the big statue of Jesus Christ overlooking the city. It’s not as big as the one in Rio, but the city’s view is amazing. Below us, the whole city of Cusco is spreading in shape of puma. And why the puma? Puma belongs to the trio of sacred animals, and represents the power. To the trinity belongs also Condor representing freedom and a snake representing wisdom. But the true symbol of Incas is rainbow (Acro Iris) with all its seven colors. And as we are heading to the statue of Jesus Christ, a beautiful rainbow appears in the distance. Incas are saying goodbye to us…

Gringos – so Peruvians call us foreign tourists and visitors, mostly white skin foreigners. In the evening, we are enjoying our dinner at a restaurant overlooking the main square. Again, we order a traditional quinoa soup, which I personally start to call a farting soup. It tastes great, but I suspect it from our stomach problems. At night, Franco takes us to the bus station, where we take the luxury bus of Cruz del Sur. It is a night line with comfortable seats that look like business class seats in aircrafts. There is about seven hours long night journey in front of us to the city of Puno…

Floating islands on Titicaca

At six in the morning, Dulio, Franco’s friend, is waiting for us at the bus station in Puno. He first takes us to the city, where we get time for breakfast. But the city still sleeps and everything looks closed. In one hostel we find a modest breakfast for three people for 30 Soles. After breakfast, Dulio will take us to the harbor, where our boat is waiting to take us on the Lake Titicaca. As soon as we get onto the motorboat, it starts rain heavily but the captain promises that the weather will change soon. In a heavy rains the boat stop at the special floating island of Uros, which is another part of the world for me. On this floating piece of cork, in the midle of the lake Titicaca, the whole community of people lives in very modest conditions. They even have a school and a small hospital built here. Artificially created cork islands have been floating on the water for several centuries. Originally, they were created by the inhabitants called the Uros, who found there brilliant hiding place from their enemies. They used to live from fishing, but nowadays they mostly live there to keep their traditions and also for tourism. Whoever dares to pay a night with Uros people on their island in their homes, can have a great experience, but myself personally would not want to sleep on a stack of straw, not in rain. On the island, the locals, in cooperation with the translators, explain us how is the island built of cork, straw and reeds, and what habits are there. Then we can buy handmade souvenirs made by Uros people for tourists.

After a small tour we get back onto the boat and finally weather changes to better as the captain promised. When we dock by the another island of Taquille, it is beautiful again. Taquille is an island that has been created by nature, but also a small community lives there in very simple conditions. People still keep their traditions there but mostly to present them to tourists. There is an incredible peace on the island and the lake is shining in the sunshine as silver. So this is The Treasure on the Silver Lake? Local people show us their traditions, crafts and folk dances. Women are meaking ponchos and men are knitting sweaters and hats! Exactly, the Taquille men are those who knit. For lunch, excellent farting quinoa soup (again) and grilled trout are served for the whole group. And after the lucnh, we are heading on the boat to the mainland. Since we have enough time before our flight from Juliaca, we are enjoying delicious apple pie and coffee at a restaurant in the center of the city that happens to be owned by the Franco‘s family.

Struggling at the airport

After dinner, Dulio drives us to the Juliaca city airport. I’m glad that Franco had arranged this for us, because Juliaca is very dangerous place for foreigners. A lot of stress begin when they tell us at the airport that our flight with Avianca to Lima is desperately full and there are no seats for us. I do not want to believe that we have to sleep in this terrible city! Ground staff manager probably understands our desperate expressions in the face, and so tries one more call. Yeeeesss! The captain of the flight is so sweet that he allows us to occupy three jumpseats (folding seats near the aircraft door for cabin crew)! A nice gesture, coz these seats cannot be normally given to crew who don’t have licence from the same company. Fortunately, our Etihad licences were enough! In Lima we stay for one night at the same hotel as last time and we are given a drive by our sweet driver Miguel again. The next day, however, another unplesant surprise is waiting for us at the airport in Lima. Our flight with Air Europa is desperately full again, and the next one with Air France does not look very promising as well. We were told that departures from Lima are always a problem, as airport transport plays the most important role in these lands. We are waiting for a few hours at the airport and praying. Air France, fortunately, has a few hours delay, which actually saves our asses. Many passengers, for the reason of delay and connecting flights, rather rebook their flight, so in the end, fortunatelly, there are three vacant seats for us… Hola Europe!