Finding Happiness on RÉUNION Island

In 2023, I spent Christmas and New Year on the beautiful island of Réunion. When I look back, I still think of it as the happiest month of my life.

Christmas is usually a time I spend with my family, back in my snowy hometown. That year, however, I couldn’t be with them. Instead, I celebrated the holidays with my flying crew on a tropical island in the Indian Ocean—an entirely new and unforgettable experience.

Réunion is a small island east of Madagascar, close to Mauritius and not far from the Seychelles. Like many islands in the region, it has a French colonial past, but unlike its neighbors, Réunion is still part of France today. It is an overseas department, often referred to as “remote France.” It feels surreal to be so far away in the Indian Ocean and yet still technically in France—using euros, enjoying Schengen benefits, and even paying the same mobile roaming prices as at home.

This European status brings higher living standards, but the island lifestyle transforms Réunion into something truly special. I have never seen so many smiling, relaxed, and genuinely kind people anywhere else. Everyone seemed to be in a good mood and incredibly welcoming to visitors. Even the passengers on board were the most polite and easygoing I have ever encountered—which is saying a lot, as confined spaces usually bring out the worst in people.

I spent a full month on Réunion thanks to our company’s ACMI contract with Air Austral, the local airline. One aircraft, three sets of crew. A few days a week, I was working—flying short routes to neighboring islands such as Mauritius, Seychelles, Madagascar, or the Comoros. The rest of the time, I was simply enjoying island life. Truly, I had the time of my life.

Réunion is not about endless sandy beaches. Instead, it is all about lush green hills, dramatic volcanic landscapes and wild waterfalls. Perhaps that’s why it’s less popular than Mauritius as a classic beach destination. But the energy of the island is extraordinary—freeing, grounding, and powerful. In many ways, it reminded me of Hawaii.

Your stay on Réunion can easily turn into waterfall chasing, as the island is home to hundreds of them. At Anse des Cascades, waterfalls seem to appear everywhere you look. My personal favorites were Bassin La Paix and Bassin Bœuf—both perfect for swimming and even cliff jumping. And who wouldn’t want to bathe in a waterfall?

Other stunning natural sights worth mentioning include:

• Bassin La Roche
• Cascade du Chaudron
• Cascade Grand Galet
• Cirque de Mafate
• Piton de la Fournaise (one of the world’s most active volcanoes)

Just be prepared—almost every waterfall requires at least a bit of hiking.

Two colleagues and I hoped to see whales in their natural habitat. Réunion offers small-group trips where you can snorkel near them, but unfortunately, it wasn’t the right season. Humpback whales migrate to the Indian Ocean during the Southern Hemisphere winter, when warmer waters are ideal for their calves. We were there in summer, during the monsoon season. Still, we signed up for the trip. We didn’t see whales—but instead, we swam with a pod of wild, curious dolphins. Seeing them free in their natural environment was absolutely priceless. Most ocean wildlife encounters start around the Saint-Gilles area.

As I mentioned, Réunion isn’t famous for beaches—but it does have some lovely ones. L’Hermitage-les-Bains is a large public beach, though water shoes are recommended because of sharp coral fragments. The upside? Good for snorkeling. Personally, I preferred Boucan Canot, with its beautiful sandy shore and natural rock pool protected from waves.

When it comes to food, I was practically on a tuna diet—because Réunion does tuna exceptionally well. The best beach lunch we had was at the small restaurant Sauvage, a barefoot fine-dining experience. You absolutely must try Tartare de Thon à la Tahitienne. Le Ti Boucan is another great spot for brunch by the beach.

For something truly local, don’t miss La Case Volcan, known for some of the best Creole curries on the island. Instead of a menu, they bring you small samples of all the daily dishes so you can choose your favorite. It’s the perfect stop after visiting the Vanilla Bourbon plantations. Yes—Réunion is famous for its vanilla. Plantation Vanilla Bourbon isn’t just about vanilla; it’s more like a botanical garden showcasing the island’s native vegetation.

For a romantic dinner, I highly recommend La Manta near L’Hermitage Beach. And once again—try the tuna.

Réunion also has its own local beer called Bourbon, but no one really calls it that. Locals simply say “Dodo,” after the dodo bird on the label. We had at least one Dodo almost every evening.

Summer on Réunion means a lot of rain—and when it rains, it really pours. Tropical downpours can be intense, but they usually pass as quickly as they arrive. I actually found rainy evenings there incredibly romantic—unless, of course, the island is hit by a cyclone. In early 2024, Cyclone Belal caused airport closures for two days, and our aircraft had to divert to Madagascar. But that’s a story for another time.

To conclude, I can honestly say I hadn’t felt that free and aligned with myself since 2019. Réunion has, to me, a very feminine, stress-free energy. There is water everywhere—waterfalls, rain, humidity—and water is often associated with the feminine principle. I felt good in my body: I ate plenty of protein (hello, tuna), soaked up vitamin D, slept well, and enjoyed unhurried, meaningful time. The humidity made my skin glow, I stopped trying to control everything, my stress levels dropped, and I finally let myself go with the flow.

For the first time in years, I truly felt like myself again.