Long before my vacation, I wondered where to go this time. Should I go home when I have the opportunity to travel around the world? I was used to traveling with my crazy boyfriend, but he has the initial training for cabin crew of Saudi Airlines, a new company for him. Even with my friends, our rosters aren’t matching this time. But I thought to pull my sister out of her mother’s duties. Once upon a time we already traveled together and I know that I couldn’t wish for a better travel buddy. I don’t have to pull her out of bed with as much effort as by trying to pull out my boyfriend, nor do I have to follow her at every party like my friends. In short, we are similar. First we easily convinced our mom to take care of her grandchild, and then we had to ask sister’s partner for permission to let her go into the world… That task was a bit harder, but she was released successfully! So where should we go? Although I was afraid of the weather, Scotland eventually won. A destination that we have always dreamed about, but never realized. My sister’s dream destination. She has always been attracted by its secrets, haunted castles, romantic cliffs, peat meadows and loch monsters, while myself was interested in the land where my favorite hero, Harry Potter, was born. And after all, why not? Scotland is wonderful, even though when it is raining! And it is!

 

DAY 1

Edinburgh

With my sister Martina I meet at Edinburgh Airport. I fly a little earlier from Abu Dhabi with my Etihad, Martina arrives directly from Bratislava with Ryanair. By the way, her full return ticket costs a beautiful 120 Euros, 80 Euros cheaper than my one way staff ticket from Abu Dhabi after deducting a 90 percent employee discount! So, Slovaks, no excuses, Edinburgh is really available! Right in front of the airport, there is a bus stop for Airlink light-blue bus, which connects the remote airport with the city center for four pounds only (return ticket) and it leaves every ten minutes. We get off at the Edinburgh Castle and I immediately pull my mobile phone out of my pocket and open an useful map.me application that works and reliably navigates even in offline mode (just download the map in advance). The goal is to find our Balmore Guest House, somewhere in the streets of the Old Town (double room with breakfast about 60 Euros per night), where we booked the first night. However, except this guest house we do not have anything else pre-arranged. Our next steps are in the hands of fate and spontaneity. Just Martina carries with her a book – a small guide to Scotland with underlined places that she would like to see. Let’s see how much we can make…

Haggis and Whiskey!

It is raining outside and dragging our suitcases along the old stone streets is not very funny. But as we find our accommodation, it gets better outside and we gain new energy. Furniture is old, room tiny, but very cozy. We change, stretch our bodies and let’s go back to the town. I lead my sister exactly along the same route as I passed when I was in Edinburgh for the last time with cabin crew: Edinburgh Castle, Royal Mile, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Giles, an old bazaar in old church, famous dog Greyfrairs Bobby, Scottish Monument view… I wrote about it in more detail in my previous post about Edinburgh. At the end of the day we end up in the traditional Scottish pub Maggie Dickson on Grassmarket Street, where I can’t wait to enjoy a Scottish specialty called Haggis (something like black-pudding sausage). Well, I wish you Bon Apetite!

DAY 2

The best city view

When we wake up in a soft, warm bed early in the morning, it’s not easy to get up in the cold and foggy day. In addition, Scots like to save on heating. At breakfast we have to warm ourselves up with the strong English tea with milk. After breakfast, we leave our small trolleys at the reception and we continue with the city exploring. This time our goal is Calton Hill with the ruins from the first half of the 19th century, which I missed on my last layover. But first we have to buy a beautiful red umbrella with a typical tartan pattern in the souvenir shop. Till we get on the top of the hill, it stops raining. So just about a time for the perfect light for pictures. On the top of the hill is one of the most beautiful views overlooking the city. In addition, there is the Old Royal High School, the Dugald Stewart Monument and the unfinished War Memorial. I have already written that every building in Edinburgh looks like a haunted castle. Maybe that inspired J.K. Rowling for writing Harry Potter. But many other famous novels were born in the coffeeshops and dwellings of this magical city. Who is interested, can choose from the various tours offered to learn more about some famous writers such as Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson (Treasure Island), Arthur Conan Doyle (Sherlock Holmes), Irvine Welsh or Robert Burns or to visit haunted buildings where ghosts and spooky creatures were spotted…

Scotland by train

Around lunchtime, it’s raining so heavily that we’re forced to hide in the first bizarre retro style bistro. However, they serve an excellent home-made vegetable soup to warm us up. When the heavy rain finally turns into drizzling, we take the roundabout around the Fountain Bridge and then back to our guest house to pick our trolleys. This is followed by a walk to Waverley Railway Station from where we are taking a train to our next stop – Scotland’s second most popular city, Glasgow. Even though my sister is a very good driver and we were considering the possibility of renting a car, we find out that it is much more convenient (and probably also way cheaper) to travel around Scotland by train. In addition, the Scottish Railways are well connected and there is free wifi in each train! You can book your seats simply online (I use the Loco2 international app) and the tickets you can pick up at the vending machine at every station by entering your reference number… We arrive to Glasgow after a smooth pleasant ride. Then we have to drag our suitcases from the station along the long shopping street to the next guest house where we are about to spend the night…

DAY 3

Hogwarts School of Witchcraft

When wake up in the morning we are pleased to discover that the Scottish moody weather is gone. It is beautifully sunny outside. We quickly consume our breakfast, leave the bags at the reception again and walk to the nearby Kelvingrove Park, where the old Glasgow University stands (built in 1864) which inspired J. K. Rowling to create the Hogwarts School of Witchcraft. The whole area of ​​the park is beautiful, the sun’s rays and the colored leaves of the autumn just compliment the magical atmosphere…

Fort William

After a magical wandering around we buy a light lunch and we are already sitting in another train, this time on our way up north, to the Highland town of Fort William. Its many peat meadows have been often chosen for movie shooting (Bravery Heart, Rob Roy). Many beautiful scenes from Harry Potter also took place in the beautiful, rough countryside around Scotland’s tallest mountain – Ben Nevis. During the four-hour train journey we sit all the time stuck to the windows and admire the surrounding nature. We are also passing around the world’s most remote station, the tiny railway station of Corrour, where the trains stop only on signal, and where only the most brave backpackers get off  to head to Fort William by foot across endless peat meadows. Famous Loch Ossian Youth Hostel is located near the picturesque Loch Ossian lake and is surrounded only by nature, using only its own solar and wind power. However, we continue our journey further safely by train to Fort William. Through Airbnb this time we book for night a family house just outside Ben Nevis. We are not very skilled hikers and our hosts, who live in the upper part of the house, are said to be professional mountain guides. Martin, Fiona, their daughter Ella and the dog Max – are the most friendly hosts we could wish for. Martin is willing to pick us up at the station by car. At home they set fire in a cozy fireplace and patiently answer all our questions. Although it is still nice outside, the evening falls slowly and we need to plan the next steps. Initially we wanted to go for hike tour around Ben Navis and then take the train to Mallaig where we could take a ferry to the Isle of Skye, but we haven’t checked departure times which don’t fit our plans at all. Fortunately, Martin saves us with a recommendation to take a Harry Potter’s train. A real steam train that, like in the Harry Potter movies, goes through the famous viaduct. And later we can get to the Isle of Skye by bus directly from Fort William. However, online train tickets can no longer be booked, so I’ll have to wait for the morning to make a call…

DAY 4

Hogwarts Express

We wake up to the another rainy morning. A little rain doesn’t bother us, but this is a real rain shower! There is no way to go for hike around Ben Nevis and Lake Glen Nevis. I call Jacobite, a company that organizes Hogwarts Express tours and I find out that the afternoon departure was discontinued (runs only in summer time), but we still can catch the morning one. We have to adapt to the new situation in a flash. Martin is willing to take us to the station where we can buy the tickets. No platforms 9 ¾, we are not at Kings Cross but at Fort William. As we are all sited in the steam train, the clouds in the sky begin to tear. With a bit of luck, we will pass through the famous viaduct when it is nice. Exactly 10:15 we take off from the station and first sun rays show up in the sky. We were lucky, we got the seats right next to the window in the last cart, and when the train turns into a curve, we can clearly see the front wagon with the steam. What a romantic view! And the Glennfinnan viaduct, 380 meters long and 80 meters high in front of us. The train is slowing down, and all the passengers roll to the window with their cameras. Right after we pass the viaduct we stop at Glennfinnan Station, where there is a small souvenir shop. I buy a guide book with Harry Potter movies locations. At lunch time we arrive to the small fishing village of Mallaig, where we wander around for a while, have a lunch and get on Harry’s train back to Fort William. What we didn’t manage to capture on the way to Mallaig, we’re catching up on the way back. It takes a while till Martin can pick us up so we wander around the picturesque square in Fort William town, which is just a short walk from the train station. Scottish Highlands are magical. Later in the evening in the house just a cracking fire in the fireplace, a good book and a warm and soft blanket…

DAY 5

Rainy drive and Eileen Donan Castle

After breakfast, our dear host Martin takes us to the station for the last time, where we catch Citylink bus across the long bridge to Portree, the largest city on the island called Isle of Skye. The whole day is raining heavily and according to weather forecasts it is not to be any better today. However, we are not so disappointed, anyway we have no other plans, than to move to the island, and when the bus driver does not save on heating, we are happy. About two hours of drive we slightly open our tired eyes and start looking through the bus windows. We are just passing the idyllic Eileen Donan Castle, which is standing almost on the water. In the late afternoon we finally arrive to Portree. It is still densely raining outside. We need to make another plan. There is no point to go exploring the island without a car. First we stop at a restaurant where we need to warm up, get dry, fill our stomachs and connect to wifi. Later we move to the tourist information center (Visitscotland) for further advice. We are considering to book an organized island trip for the next day, but they are all fully booked. Never mind, it’s always better on your own. In the center they recommend us to try the nearest car rental. Driving on the left will be a bit challenging, but we’re going to do it. Martina is struggling a bit with an automatic transmission and driving on the other side, but after while she is doing very well. We stop first at the supermarket where we buy something for a light dinner and then we park in front of another guest house in the city center, where we spend the night. Outside, it is still terribly raining, so we have only one plan for the evening – to dive into the warm blankets!

DAY 6

Isle of Skye

We get up early in the morning, when it is still dark outside and after a breakfast in a Scottish way – eggs with salmon, we go for an exploring trip around the island. Fortunately, the weather is pleasant again. I forget about all the curses I had for the weather yesterday and again I’m happy we have decided to travel to Scotland in the fall. The autumn colors adds even more beauty to the already beautiful landscape. The first stop, the Old Man of Storr, is just 10 minutes away by car from Portree. We park our rented car in the parking lot, further we have to walk. We climb the hill up and up, while sun is slowly rising on the horizon. We appreciate the fact that we have woken up so early. So far we don’t see any tourists, just the two of us and the rocks. The landscape in front of our eyes is surreal. I feel like I am in a completely different age long long time ago, long before Christ, when dinosaurs used to live on earth. As we climb up, the oxygen in the air get thinned and my nose keeps running. I’ve used all the handkerchiefs I had! I’m about to dispose my scarf when my sister come up with an excellent idea to use a ladies sanitary towel! Exactly, I wipe my nose in it and it’s the best idea ever. My snots are nicely absorbed and I am well equipped all the way up. 🙂 When we reach the top, behind us there is an amazing hillside view. On the way back down to the car we start to meet more and more tourists. When we arrive to the parking lot, it’s so crowded that cars are already parked along the road in a long line.

 

Dinosaurs at Lealt Falls

We set out on the road to the Lealt Falls and Kilt Rock, where we can see breathtaking views again. Right at Lealt Falls, archaeologists have discovered a petrified footprint of the dinosaur that you can still view today. So here they were!

Fairy Pools

In the afternoon we are heading across the super tiny paths, when you have to avoid driving cars in opposite direction, towards to Fairy Pools. We park our car again and continue by foot. Again, I’m hardly catching my breath, but this time I’m impressed by the beauty around me. Tiny lakes between the rocks with turquoise clear water and the tumbling waterfalls make me totally dazed. So come here all the fairies for bath! It’s too cold to jump into the water, even though some tourists still do so. While my sister climbs the rocks up to the other lakes, I have the desire to sit on one of the stone close to the water and listen to the sound of nature. I feel like in a God’s temple. In the most beautiful temple, man could never build…

Clouds and fog

Although I would prefer to stay by Fairies Pools till the evening, we have to return our car on time. On the way back, unfortunately, the gear starts to strike. However, every car passing by is willing to stop, local people are trying to help us. With their help we finally solve the problem somehow, the automated system recovers and we are able to return the car to the rental company in good condition. Then we stop at the restaurant for another tasty Haggis and after the dinner we take the bus to Inverness, where we spend our last night in Scotland in another guest house. However, I already know that the day spent on the picturesque island of Skye (with just over 9500 inhabitants), whose name is derived from the Norwegian word skuy, which means “clouds and fog”, will be engraved into my memory forever as one of the most beautiful days in life. Goodbye Skye!

DAY 7

Following Loch Ness Monster

We wake up to a beautiful sunny morning in northern Scotland in Inverness, which lies by the legendary Loch Ness Lake. Online we have booked a day tour following the mysteries of Loch Ness monster. First we have to take the tourist bus closer to the lake. There is the ship waiting for us and taking us to the mysterious island where Urquhart Castle is located. The lake, which is said to have been formed after the last ice age, reaches a depth of up to 300 meters and, due to its specific composition, the water is so dense, heavy and dark blue as ink. Ideal conditions for sheltering an unusual creature! On the way back to Inverness, we stop at the exhibition center, where we are given an interesting explanation of all the researches, searches, legends, question marks and facts about the Loch Ness Monster. I really start to believe that something strange could be hidden in the lake!

Goodbye Scotland!

In Inverness, we stop for lunch – again my favorite Haggis, then we’re wandering around the city for while before we get train back to Edinburgh. But we have chose the wrong wagon. It is full of singers, respectively screaming drunken football fans. But the train guide saves us. The wagon is locked so the football fans can’t cross in between the other carts and so bother other passengers, but at the next station we are advised to jump into a quieter wagon. After arriving to Edinburgh, we head to Waverley Station where we get on Airlink bus back to the airport… Goodbye Scotland! I already miss you!

We arrive to Edinburgh Airport early in the morning together with heavy rain. Luckily, while I spent four hours sleeping, the weather has changed to better. Now the sky looks sunny. Let’s see how long it will stay like this for. 🙂 We’re in cold Scotland, which is quite niggard when it comes to sun. In the afternoon I meet with my crew. This time it’s surprisingly eight of us! It seems that Edinburgh is one of the most popular destinations, because senior crew members rarely leave the comfort of the hotel room. Only new joiners have still energy to explore. I’m bit afraid of a large group, I rather explore on my own or in a small group of people I get along well. I don’t like to face arguments and then do compromises. But it seems, however, that today we operate like a team not only on board, but also while out of our uniforms.

 

Harry Potter and the most loyal dog

We have to take a large taxi for eight people, which drops us off in front of Edinburgh Castle. We don’t go in, we just enjoy the view from the walls. Each building in Scotland’s capital looks like a haunted castle. I can see why writer J. K. Rowling came with idea to write about Harry Potter right here. Later, we get lost in the big souvenir shop, which is just below the castle. Bags are filled with cashmere scarves, biscuits or whiskey-flavored teas. And the time to fill our stomachs comes. Our Food and Beverage Manager leads us to a pretested location across the main street Royal Mile. We pass magnificent St. Giles Cathedral, under which Scotts in their typical kilts are playing the Gadgets. We stop at the Scotch Whiskey shop and continue towards Lauriston Square. There, on the corner of Grassmarket and George IV. Street is a small statue of a dog. Greyfriars Bobby was the darling of the whole city. He became known after the death of his master when he was guarding his grave for an unbelievable 14 years until he died as well. Only thanks to the people who kept bringing him food to the grave was able to live for so long… An unique example of perseverance, loyalty and unconditional love…

Scottish Haggis

Grossmarket is home to the typical Scottish Pub Maggie Dickson with live music and traditional food. And we’re going to eat there. As an aperitif, I’m choosing “salty and peat” Isle Whiskey Laphroig. After it, dense creamy vegetable soup and lamb chops with potato mash follows. Carefully from a colleague’s plate, I taste the traditional Scottish Haggis, which is actually something like liver sausages, flavored sheep’s intestines mixed with oatmeal. I have to admit that they are excellent! I will not hesitate so much next time.

The view from the tower

With a full stomach and warmed up with whiskey, we are ready for cold weather outside. The sun is still on the sky, although it sometimes fights with heavy clouds. At the Royal Mile, we stop at an old church, which today works as a bazaar of beautiful artistic crafts. And there, our large group falls apart. The captain with our First Officer prefer to go to the bar for another set of whiskey, while the rest of us walk down the street towards the Scott Monument tower. For five pounds we can go up to enjoy the view over city. It takes exactly 287 spiral and dangerously narrow stairs. As we climb up, we are loosing our breath and fighting with dizziness. And above all, up there is terribly windy, but the view is definitely worth it!

See you soon Edinburgh

When we leave the tower, outside is getting dark slowly. Three of us ditch us to continue on Calton Hill, where some Antic ruins are found. The rest of us go to pick up our pilots from the bar and get back to the hotel together. Edinburgh is awesome! I’m looking forward to coming back again. 😉