Only in Morocco does each door open to a fairy tale, where the mint tea tastes like a magical elixir and any oil lamp might be hiding a genie with three granted wishes…

I’ve traveled to many places and visited more than 70 countries, but I keep saying Morocco is my favorite destination. There’s something so unique and incredible about Morocco that I feel constantly inspired. I’ve never been a beach or mountain person, but cultural immersion has always been my type of travel. And Morocco has it all – beaches, mountains, desert, and above all, one beautiful, rich culture. Tradition has never looked this good as in this country. I don’t know how Moroccans do it, but they blend Arab, Berber, Andalusian, Mediterranean, Hebraic, French, and African influences all together in one incredibly tasteful mix.

But I must admit, it was not love at first sight. When I first arrived in Morocco in 2017, I was in shock. I saw only chaos and mess. But I gave Morocco a second chance and slowly fell in love. Head over heels. Forever. It was that moment I realized I was in love when I dove into the bustling souks of Marrakech and soaked in its unique atmosphere:

Yes, Morocco is messy and chaotic, but also colorful, authentic, and full of flavors. I always wanted to share my love for Morocco with others—to show them how magical this country is. People in my country, Slovakia, usually prefer to spend their vacation by the beach. And even though there’s some magic in an Aperol Spritz glass by the Mediterranean Sea, it’s not Morocco. So, when the opportunity arose to collaborate with TourHero to lead a small group trip there, of course I took it! TourHero literally helped me get my dream trip off the ground. Here’s my full and genuine TourHero review of my 2025 group trip to Morocco…

Exploring Morocco: One Bite at a Time

I’m an experienced traveler, obsessed planner, and former travel designer with experience from a travel agency, and yet I admit planning a group trip abroad can feel overwhelming—but not with TourHero.

Before my first online meeting with the TourHero team, I did my research. Sightseeing group tours to Morocco on the market usually offer insane itineraries. At least to me. They drag people from one side of the country to the other so travelers can see all the important sights, but they forget about one thing—the most important one of all: where is the room to enjoy? I didn’t want my group to spend most of the trip in a minibus transferring from one spot to another. I wanted to focus on slow traveling, cultural immersion, and sensory exploration. And TourHero had my back.

Their team helped me fine-tune an itinerary that included all my ideas but still balanced movement, adventure, and rest. I was happy already with the first itinerary draft. Maybe planning isn’t the hardest part for me, but still, I wouldn’t have been able to create such a trip by myself. Without strong partnerships, it’s almost impossible to make a customized trip at a competitive price. But because TourHero works with dozens of local operators, pricing for my trip was super competitive. And their work doesn’t end there. They handled every logistical detail such as bookings, transportation, and payments. I was free to spend more time with my group and enjoy the trip myself. You don’t need to be an experienced planner or influencer to create a trip with TourHero. Their guidance from the start and precisely targeted questions will help you tailor one perfect itinerary. Organization is also on them; all you need is a small community of people to join you on your adventure. Start here.

Still not convinced? Check out more stories like mine on the TourHero Review Page.

From Agadir to Marrakech

Our trip started in the coastal city of Agadir due to more convenient (affordable) flight connections from Slovakia. (All members of my group were from Slovakia, like me.) But that wasn’t the initial plan. I liked that the TourHero team was so responsive and flexible to make some adjustments to the itinerary. It felt good to have support just a WhatsApp message away. That evening when we arrived at the main Agadir beach, it was extremely windy. Well, it’s a favorite surfer destination for a reason. Some who were really looking forward to seeing the ocean were disappointed that it was too cold to dive in, but a great seafood dinner at a random restaurant by the beach made up for it.

The next morning, my group experienced the magic of Moroccan breakfast for the first time—and they were all amazed. What’s better than starting a day on a sunny rooftop with a Moroccan morning feast? Imagine a light breeze, sun rays, chirping birds, the smell of coffee, fresh bread, and a full table of delicacies. Moroccan breakfast traditionally consists of fresh orange juice, olives, butter, yogurt, honey, fresh spread cheese, homemade jam, Moroccan Nutella (with argan oil), and a variety of breads and pancakes like msemmen or baghrir. Sweet Moroccan mint tea can’t be missing, too!

After breakfast, we met with our guide Ibrahim and driver Hassan, who were to accompany us throughout the whole trip. When I saw Ibrahim welcoming us with a wide smile, great energy, and arms wide open, I knew we were in good hands. We hopped in our minibus and headed toward Marrakech.

Goats on Trees? You Don’t See That Every Day

Only in Morocco do goats grow on trees—particularly argan trees. Okay, they don’t grow on them—they feast on argan tree leaves, and because argan trees grow only in the area from Agadir to Marrakech, you won’t find this view anywhere else. Of course, we had to stop and take a picture. For a small tip to the shepherd, we were even allowed to pet their adorable kids.

Welcome to the Riad… Hold On, What Is a Riad?

After a three-hour drive, we arrived in Marrakech and stopped by the ancient city walls. Cars are not allowed to enter the old town, or medina—in Moroccan language. An old man with his cart was already waiting for us to help (for a small tip) with carrying the luggage to our accommodation. Without him, we would have been lost. When you’re walking through the maze of narrow streets of the medina, you’d never guess how beautiful and spacious the houses with courtyards are hidden behind each door. Sometimes it’s confusing to find the right door to our riad. Each door in Marrakech actually opens to an enchanting fairy tale.

But what is a riad? A riad is a traditional Moroccan house with a private interior courtyard garden. Often a family-run establishment with a limited number of rooms and personalized attention to each guest. Nowadays these old houses are popular as boutique hotels and guest houses, offering a unique experience for visitors seeking to immerse themselves in Moroccan culture. I don’t understand why many travel agencies put their travelers in boring, impersonal chain hotels when there are plenty of charming riads in Morocco. Staying in one of the Moroccan riads is an experience in itself! And it was also my condition when I was planning this trip with TourHero. And they came up with the best selection of accommodations!

For the first two nights in Marrakech, we were to stay in the cozy Riad Milouda, with a pool in the middle of the courtyard and a charming rooftop sitting area. We were welcomed traditionally with the Moroccan mint tea ritual, where the tea is poured from a height to create a frothy head. The staff of our riad was incredible. A young guy, out of fun, introduced himself as Hamsik (Slovakia’s most famous football player) and memorized the name of every person in our 10-member group.

Marrakech: It’s Not Just a City

What is it about Marrakech? It’s just a city… or maybe not. Marrakech’s medina is one large souk. And the souks of Marrakech are magical. Imagine a maze of narrow alleys that are home to over 2,000 stalls and shops with artisanal crafts and traditional goods. You can see artisans at work, producing one-of-a-kind goods right in front of your eyes. Moroccan ancient artisan tradition is rich: mosaics, carpet weaving, embroidery, traditional clothing, pottery, leather goods, jewelry, silversmithing, woodwork, carpentry, aromatic spices… Moroccan artisans embody the soul of the country’s cultural heritage, preserving traditions that have transcended time, perfecting their crafts from generation to generation.

As soon as we refreshed ourselves, I took my group for a small familiarization stroll. But very soon, somewhere among the herbs and spices, our group broke up. Some of us were attracted to beautiful leather handbags while others were drawn to jewelry or art pieces. Thank God each of us found our way back to our riad on time for dinner.

An important dominant landmark and orientation point in the medina is the largest mosque in Marrakech – the Koutoubia, located just at the end of the main square, Jemaa el-Fnaa. This vibrant square, full of music, local street performers, cobra whisperers, and henna artists, gets even busier after sunset. If you want to experience the general vibe of nighttime Marrakech—this is the place to be. Or somewhere on a rooftop with a chilled Casablanca beer… After all, rooftops have cultural significance in Marrakech. Traditionally (in times of no air-condition), they have been important social spaces for gatherings, especially during hot summer nights when the ground level of houses becomes unbearably warm…

Enchanting Majorelle’s Garden

The next day, after another Moroccan breakfast feast, we were ready for a medina tour with our professional guide Ibrahim. We learned a lot of insightful information about the city and Moroccan culture from him. We visited a traditional Moroccan pharmacy full of herbs, spices, natural cosmetics, and medicines, and then finished our tour in the famous Bahia Palace. The palace is a stunning example of Moroccan architecture, with intricate details, vibrant colors, and a sprawling complex of gardens, courtyards, and rooms. The name Bahia was given to the palace in honor of Grand Vizier Bou Ahmed’s favorite wife. In the afternoon, I had combined tickets for the well-known Majorelle Gardens and the Yves Saint Laurent Museum.

Jardin Majorelle—I had a feeling it was going to be beautiful. After all, it once belonged to French designer Yves Saint Laurent. But truth be told, I never expected it to be that large and stunning. Every corner of the garden is so beautiful that you don’t know where to look first. 

Majorelle Gardens (or Jardin Majorelle in French) was initially created by French Orientalist artist Jacques Majorelle over a period of almost forty years. In 1923, he purchased a plot of land near a palm grove and, as he became more established as an artist, he continued to develop it—building a Moorish-style house for himself and his wife and a Berber-style building which he named the Borj. He also painted the building in his own rich blue color that he trademarked as “Majorelle blue” and carefully cultivated 135 plant species from five continents, transforming the property into an enchanting garden. However, the garden was a very expensive passion for Majorelle and not one he could sustain after his separation in 1956. Fortunately, four years after Majorelle’s death in 1962, French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent and his long-term business partner Pierre Bergé visited Jardin Majorelle and instantly fell in love with it…

Where YSL Found His Inspiration

Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé visited Morocco for the first time in 1966. They enjoyed many happy moments in Marrakech and usually traveled there a few times each year. Morocco became an endless source of inspiration for YSL, especially Marrakech, where he was deeply inspired by the residents, colors, and light. So when he later heard of plans to bulldoze the entire Majorelle Garden and turn it into a hotel complex, he decided to purchase and restore it. The renowned Jardin Majorelle and the Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech attest to his Moroccan passion. Both YSL and Pierre Bergé also took an interest in Berber (Amazigh) art. Bergé’s museum, located in a blue house, is dedicated to his Berber art collection. Honestly, I’ve never seen more beauty in folk art. I couldn’t help but wonder what motivates this semi-nomadic ethnic group, living in small, scattered villages around the desert, to decorate and turn everything they touch into a piece of art. In my opinion, Bergé’s museum was the most beautiful museum I’ve ever seen. Unfortunately, I don’t have proof, as it’s not allowed to take pictures inside—but go see for yourself and get inspired!

I bet the Oasis Villa in the middle of the gardens, where YSL and Pierre Bergé used to live, is also a wonder. But it’s not open to the general public—only for VIP private tours, where prices start at five thousand dollars per tour…

Feast for the Eyes

We closed the third day with a Moroccan dinner at the fancy Riad Wow, whose design truly left us with one “wow” expression. There, my group tried Moroccan tajine or pastilla for the first time. Tajine is a traditional slow-cooked stew typically prepared in a clay pot also known as a tajine, while pastilla is a meat pie that combines meat with spices like cinnamon and ginger.

The next day after breakfast, we left The Red City—a name Marrakech earned due to its orange-red buildings made of local clay. (By law, the buildings must be red.) We headed south across the beautiful Atlas Mountains. The main program of the day: a feast for the eyes. On our epic drive, through winding roads and the scenic Tichka Pass, we crossed the Valley of 1000 Kasbahs.

Local Argan Oil Manufactory

Our first stop was a local argan oil manufactory where we could observe how this precious pure argan oil is produced in Morocco. And of course, we left with full bags of argan oil products.

Argan oil is made from the seeds of the argan tree, which is very rare. It grows only in a narrow strip of semi-desert between Morocco’s Atlantic coast and the Atlas Mountains. Plus, it takes about 40 kilograms of dried argan fruit to produce one liter of oil! Roasted argan seeds are used to produce culinary argan oil, which has many health benefits such as cholesterol control and immune support, while pure seeds are used for cosmetic products with anti-aging, wound healing, or anti-hair-loss effects. Top cosmetic companies like La Mer use only small amounts of argan oil in their exclusive products, but in Morocco, you can get pure 100% oil. Isn’t that awesome?

Perhaps one of the greatest benefits of argan oil is that its production can’t be easily mechanized, and so even larger commercial producers continue to employ local workers. The best ones ensure a comfortable and healthy work environment, meals, and daycare for children.

For lunch, we also stopped at a random place. A simple, slightly shabby restaurant was very busy, full of locals. Simple legumes were served, but every dish was so tasty that we found it better than in any fancy restaurant. I personally love that every food in Morocco is genuine and made from fresh ingredients.

Boumalne Dades

After a 7-hour-long drive with some interesting stops, we finally arrived at Boumalne Dades and checked in for the night at the Kasbah Tizzarouine Hotel with a magnificent view over the valley. The Dades Valley is one of the most scenic regions of Morocco. The area is lined with historic kasbahs and hosts numerous markets teeming with local produce and goods. It is also home to the country’s rose fields, where Moroccans have spent centuries producing and selling rose products (like rose oil and rosewater) to perfumeries worldwide. It’s an ideal place for hiking, exploring, or meeting some nomadic families who move across the region. Or just having a relaxing afternoon by the pool at your kasbah.

“Kasbah” means fortress or citadel in Morocco, and the one we stayed in really was a fortress. And as in every proper fairy tale, there was no shortage of traditional musicians who created an amazing atmosphere at dinner. Another great choice of accommodation from TourHero. Staying in one of the historic kasbahs is a must for the most authentic experience.

Lunch at a Local Home

Our eyes saw jaw-dropping landscapes, our noses smelled a mix of flavors, we tasted unique Moroccan cuisine and listened to Afro-Moroccan drums, and on our fifth day, we were touched by the warmth of Berber hospitality at their home. As a nice surprise, our guide Ibrahim took us for lunch to his family house near Merzouga. Moroccan “pizza” (flatbread filled with potatoes and vegetables) and mint tea were served. We also visited a local clothing manufacturer where we were able to get dressed up like Berbers… I always wanted to learn how to tie a scarf in a Berber way. It came in handy when crossing the Sahara…

Relax by the Pool

When we reached Merzouga—a small Moroccan town in the Sahara Desert—we still had a couple of hours left before our planned sunset camel trek. And here came Ibrahim with his amazing plan to take us to the pool at the Madu Hotel, which belongs to the same owner as the desert camp where we were about to stay for the night. A lazy afternoon by the pool in a beautiful hotel after a long drive was exactly what our group needed! We could even see the Sahara dunes in the distance, calling us…

Camel Trek

Even though I’ve personally been to Morocco many times, I’ve never had a chance to experience glamping—luxurious camping in the Sahara. It had been on my bucket list for so long. I also noticed many travel agencies don’t include this experience in their itineraries. It was very important to me that glamping was part of my trip. It was truly something I was looking forward to the most!

And there’s only one way to reach our Madu Luxury Desert Camp—across the dunes. And on a camel’s back! As the sun began to set and the temperature dropped, we tied our new scarves around our heads as we had just learned from the Berbers—to protect ourselves from sun and sand—and we were ready for the camel trek across the dunes. The epic journey took about an hour and a half, and eight people out of eight confirmed that this trek was the best part of the whole trip. Two of us preferred to go by SUV with our luggage, but later, when they saw how happy we were when we arrived at the camp, they expressed their regrets. Fear should never stand in the way of such an unforgettable experience! Camels are very gentle animals, and despite their humps, it’s quite comfortable sitting up there.

Glamping in Magical Sahara

Real magic happened when the sun set on the dunes. We could feel it in the sparkling air as the sun’s last rays reflected on the sands. Those colors, vastness, silence, sparkle… that was pure, indescribable magic…

And then we saw our tents for the first time. From the outside, just a tent in the desert—but inside, it had literally everything like a proper hotel room, including a shower! Actually, the room was more spacious, cozy, and better designed than any other hotel room I’ve ever been in before. Only the TV was missing, but who would need a TV in such a beautiful place?

After another delicious dinner that could compete with a fancy restaurant’s, we all gathered by the bonfire under the sky with thousands of stars and live music. Just like in 1001 Arabian Nights. I couldn’t imagine a better atmosphere.

Back on the Road

The next day, nobody missed another kind of magic in the Sahara—sunrise over the dunes—even though it meant waking up early. It was all worth it! After breakfast, we unfortunately had to leave the desert, as more experiences were awaiting us, but this time we exchanged camel backs for the back of a car. And our driver was crazy! There were moments when he was driving the car across the dunes and he didn’t even hold the wheel! But it was so much fun!

At the parking lot, Ibrahim was already waiting to take us on another long drive from Merzouga to Aït Ben Haddou. Somewhere in the middle of the journey, we also stopped at Todra Gorge. Where once there was a massive river, now there is a beautiful limestone canyon.

Aït Ben Haddou

After a five-hour drive, we finally arrived at Aït Ben Haddou—a historic ksar (castle or fortified village), a great example of Moroccan earthen clay architecture, a UNESCO heritage site, and above all, a favorite Hollywood movie location. You might recognize it from films like Game of Thrones (Yunkai), Gladiator, Kingdom of Heaven, and many, many more.

Most travel agencies bring people to Aït Ben Haddou just for a few hours to see the famous site, but that’s a huge mistake. Aït Ben Haddou is worth at least an overnight stay—especially if you get to stay in such a beautiful place as we did: Riad Caravane.

Riad Caravane

This boutique-style riad, where every room is different and each one beautiful in its own way, is to me the most beautiful riad in all of Aït Ben Haddou. Riad Caravane is definitely unique. We felt like we were staying inside an art gallery—but with genuine hospitality that made us feel at home. The interiors are stunning, and the whole design is a beautiful blend of modern, traditional, Moroccan, and African influences. Every thoughtful detail reflects great taste and connects to the surrounding landscape. We couldn’t stop admiring the rugs, lamps, paintings, handcrafted decorations.

I can’t skip mentioning the absolutely amazing staff and the food we were served for dinner. And it’s located just a 15-minute walk to the well-known UNESCO site.

Ksar Aït Ben Haddou

The next day we had free time until 11 a.m. Anyone who wanted to could visit the site on their own. Some preferred to stay and relax at our beautiful riad, but three of us, including me, woke up early and went for a walk toward the ksar before breakfast. I wanted to enjoy the site before tourists started arriving—and it was a great decision. The weather and soft morning light were perfect, small stalls with local products around the ruins were only just beginning to open, and we were the only three visitors. An ideal opportunity to take many pictures.

Our morning trip to the ksar took longer than expected, so we were very late for breakfast—but the staff was so nice to wait for us. Otherwise, we would’ve missed the best homemade apple-coffee jam ever.

Back to Marrakech

By the evening, we were back in vivid Marrakech. Usually, I don’t like crowded places, but Marrakech is different. Here, you don’t mind the people and crowds—they are part of the city’s bustling atmosphere. This time we checked into another riad—The Little Hara. Another room, another rooftop, different design—but again, incredible staff. I would never trade staying in a riad for a hotel. It feels more private and authentic.

Street Food Tour

Our second-last evening in Morocco featured a different kind of dinner. Another expert, guide Amin, came to our riad to take us on an unforgettable street food tour. I knew that the best food doesn’t have to be expensive, but even I didn’t expect Moroccan street food to be that good! We walked a lot (to make space for digestion), but we ate even more.

We started with different kinds of olives—black, green, pink—and then moved to a stall offering Moroccan sandwiches: delicious local bread filled with minced beef or sausage, egg, cheese, and vegetables. I couldn’t believe such a big portion of a delicious dish cost only €1.50!

Next stop was msemmen (my favorite)—local semolina flatbread with multiple layers, filled with cream cheese or vegetables. So simple, but so yummy! Slowly we were getting full, and we hadn’t even started!

Next stop: Moroccan harira soup made of tomatoes and chickpeas, served with dates. It tasted better than the one we had at the fancy Riad Wow the other day. Those brave enough could try snails in herbal water. And for snails, it wasn’t bad at all!

Then we tried Moroccan doughnuts and a mixed fruit smoothie. And when dessert time finally came, we were so full that we couldn’t eat another bite. Moroccan pastries looked absolutely delicious, but we took them (a whole box!) home for later.

Super strong spiced tea at the next stop was a life-saver! Made of dozens of herbs and spices—great for health and digestion. And the last stop? Spiced almonds coated in poppy seeds, cinnamon, or even anise… After this tour, we didn’t walk back to the riad—we rolled!

Moroccan Cooking Class

Our trip was, unfortunately, slowly coming to an end. We had already traveled through the food and gotten to know that Moroccan cuisine is a delightful blend of flavors, colors, and textures—making it a unique culinary experience. And on our last day in Morocco, we had a chance to master the art of crafting Moroccan tajines under the supervision of pros. I never thought a cooking class could be this much fun! Besides chicken tajine au citron, we also learned to prepare Moroccan salad, local bread, and eggplant salad. Everybody passed the test, got valuable recipes, a certificate, and a special gift—a tajine clay pot. So now we can continue practicing Moroccan cooking at home. For lunch, we each ate what we cooked, and nobody complained!

Bacha Coffee

In the afternoon, we had free time for last-minute shopping, souvenirs, and gift hunting before heading home. But I had one more place in mind to visit—one of the most beautiful cafés in the world: Bacha Coffee.

The story of Bacha Coffee begins in the medina of Marrakech. Built in 1910, the spectacular Dar el Bacha palace united the greatest cultural and political minds of the century over pots of “coffee of Arabia”—or Arabica, as it is known today. Nowadays, their menu features over 200 freshly roasted coffees from 35 countries around the world, with many infused flavor options. I tried 100% Arabica coffee with Seville orange flavor—and it was honestly just perfect.

The problem is that this place gets really busy. And they don’t accept reservations. If you want to get a table, you need to wait in line—and the waiting list is for 2 hours! I gave up the first time I was in Marrakech, but this time I was ready to wait—and it paid off. I got lucky and had my table in less than 40 minutes.

The good thing is that the café is inside the palace, so you can wait while admiring Moroccan architecture—similar to Bahia Palace, but smaller and less crowded.

Farewell Dinner

Our farewell dinner with musicians and belly dancers took place in a beautiful historic building from the 16th century. The food was remarkable, dishes were bottomless, and the venue was stunning. There were no musicians and only one belly dancer, who didn’t seem in the mood for dancing… However, this small detail couldn’t ruin our overall impression of one extraordinary trip with TourHero. We are bringing home not only thousands of stories, souvenirs, and memories—but valuable recipes too.

TourHero Review

Reflecting on this entire journey, my TourHero review is nothing but positive. I can’t imagine a better partner for creating an experience like this.

If you’re dreaming of leading your own trip, I believe that TourHero can help you make it happen. Read more stories like mine on the TourHero reviews page, and you’ll see for yourself…

Because I’ve been traveling quite a bit, people often ask me where I liked it the most. Of course, not an easy question. Every place has something interesting. But I’ve left my heart in two countries so far – Iceland – because of the beautiful nature – and definitely Morocco! Because of nature, but also for colorful culture, fantastic food and Moroccan tiles! And last but not least, my favorite serie – Game of Thrones was filmed here, as well!

Two months after our trip to Northern Morocco, half of our initial team – me and Romanian girl Emilia, have decided to explore also the Southern part of this colorful country. Emilia is a great travel partner. She has a driving license, speaks some French (and that is really useful in Morocco), and same like me, she loves Game of Thrones, Moroccan Tajine, she likes to take pictures, and we both just love Morocco … Morocco is like a trip to stories of Thousand and One Arabian Nights!

Atlas Mountains

Early in the morning we arrive to the capital of Casablanca with our Etihad flight and at the airport from the car rental SIXT we pick up a stylish car – red Fiat 500. Ideal vehicle for two girls like us. But not so ideal anymore for a stressful drive through the Atlas Mountains, as we find out later. We head south all the way to Sahara Desert to the town of Ouarzazate, which has become famous throughout the world for its Hollywood movie studios. We pass Marrakesh quite fast, but beyond the gates of the Red City (as Marrakesh is used to call for the reddish color of its houses) the road is getting worse. The road leads through the Atlas Mountains, which is beautiful but dangerous. The road is narrow and winding, which our little car can still handle, but rocky terrain, bed roads with sometimes even frozen snow and large tracks driving in the opposite direction are a way bigger challenge. I often feel like we would just get blown off the cliff! Emilia is not exactly the most experienced driver, but I have no other choice but to trust her. At least she drives slowly! Although instead of the planned 3.5 hours, the journey from Casablanca to Ouarzazate will eventually take us eight hours! However, the sun shines and view is beautiful so we do not worry about it that much. Atlas is a kind of a paradox mountain. Tropical cactuses grow on the sunny side of the hills while thick snow covers the other side of the mountain road. On some places we even see children building snowmen! In many places along the roadside beautiful natural souvenirs are offered – fossils, crystals and geodes in incredible colors.

Ouarzazate and the Bay of Slaves

The next day we get up early in the morning. We have a lot of plans for this day and moreover later we will have to drive back to Marrakesh through the Atlas Mountains. We would like to take most of this road in the daylight. For a long day full of experiences we need to refuel with energy from our hotel breakfast in the traditional Moroccan style. On my table are my favorite semolina pancakes – Mesamen, Beghir pancakes, strong Moroccan tea with mint leaves, honey, cheese, olives, jam, eggs and fresh orange juice. We get tickled by the morning sun rays, which we enjoy by the pool for a bit, and then we set out for the movie studios…

Berbers (or Amazighs) are a nomadic tribe that appears around the Sahara Desert, especially in Algeria and Morocco. Berbers have their own Berber language and letters, customs, traditions and history and are very proud of their origins. Many Moroccans proudly say that there are no Arabs (although they all speak Arabic), but Berbers.

Inside the walls of Ait Ben Haddou we are captivated by the roof terrace, where a cup of traditional Moroccan tea is served. The owner of the house lets us take the pictures on the roof of his house without having to pay. I’m surprised how different people from the South to Moroccans from the North are. After a small talk, local guy starts supplying us with gossips from Hollywood as he often assisted the film crew during shooting. He claims that most of the stars walk up Ait Ben Haddou with their nose up, but Khaleese was completely different, friendly and curious. Actress Emily Clarke was apparently so captivated by the old Berber’s town that she refused a luxury hotel in Ourzazate and stayed in a modest guest house among the walls with local Berbers for two weeks during the filming! And our new friend offers us a similar experience as Khaleese had! We could stay in his house and with his family and not only for dinner but also overnight and for traditional breakfast and all this either completely free or for voluntary charge. It’s a pity that we don’t have any spare time and we also have already booked the night in one road in Marrakesh (which was not easy to book, because most of the year it is fully booked), otherwise we would have certainly stayed. But we take contact from him and we promise to ourselves that we have to come back here for a real Berber adventure!

Riad Yasmine and Marrakesh

To be honest, just pictures of Riad Yasmine on Instagram was what made me to go to Marrakesh. The idyllic pool in the middle of the patio, all these flowers, design and marble mosaics tiles everywhere and I feel like a princes in a palace not a guest in a guesthouse. To understand, there are many such raids in Marrakesh but Yasmine along with Be Riad are ones of the most popular (also thanks to massive Instagram advertising). And most booked all the year long. In short, you need to book your room pretty in advance. And when you are lucky enough to find a free room, book it immediately and then adjust the rest of your vacation to that date. That was also my case: first I had booked two only available nights, then I was looking for a travel buddy, trading my vacation or days off, praying during nights to make it work and a flight ticket came to the very end. Thanks to our cabin crew staff tickets it’s not such a problem.

This is what traditional homes in the old city of Morocco are called. Once they were the homes of local families for generations, today they mostly serve for tourists as guesthouses. There is never more than six, seven rooms in such a dahr or riad. Both types of houses have a gallery, patio or courtyard in the middle, and the only difference between dahr and riad is that the riad has an open roof so there is often a swimming pool or a beautiful garden inside, while dahr has a roof closed and something like a large common room inside. I must say that I love both types of Moroccan houses! Oh those tiles…

So in the morning we wake up in the beautiful Yasmine dream series, and I immediately change my mind that I’m not a morning type. I used to hate the mornings, but in Marrakesh I realized that it just depends where you wake up. If it’s in Marrakesh, even if you are normally a night owl, you will begin to love the mornings. Few minutes later at our patio we are having another amazing Moroccan breakfast, which I like to get used to. At the bottom of the pool I recognize the symbol from the Berber flag. Emilia feels sick today, maybe consequences from the stress of yesterday’s trip so I let her rest in bed and I go to enjoy my book by the pool. In the afternoon I will move to the rooftop like proper Moroccan. The life of the Moroccans usually takes place on the roofs of their homes. Various picnics and barbecues with family are held on the rooftops. And at night, the roof is the refuge place for the husbands, who after having fun with their wife, comes here to cool down and smoke. At least in one movie happening in Casablanca they say so. 🙂

In the evening, Emilia’s face get a normal color again, so we can go wandering around Medina together. We get lost in a maze of traditional bazaar and a spice market (souk). There’s an incredible number of people, and there are plenty of various temptations and smells on every corner. The magic lamps shine, the decorations are clinking, the food is scenting around… Especially the lamps that look like taken from the story about Aladdin and the magic lamp are particularly impressive. I’m thinking in which one is the Genie hiding, who would make my three wishes come true. The Arab world has believed in the Genies since ancient times, and the existence of the Genies is even officially recognized by the Qur’an, which was the biggest surprise to me. The Genies are elves of the Oriental world, they can be good and bad, live among us people but they are invisible to our eyes. We stop at one of the many stalls that sells various colorful goods in plenty of sacks. As the willing salesman explains to us, the distinctive red powder is made out of poppy flowers that Berber women use for their lips like lipstick. Thick black kohl oil is used for seductive and mysterious Arabic eye lines and white crystals that at first look resemble cocaine is eucalyptus powder and treat migraines and airways while the wooden stick is used for chewing instead of toothbrush because its juices clean teeth. There is also a place for pure Argan oil, which cannot be missed in any home of Berber woman. It does some magic not only for hair but also for skin! In addition to the bottle of this yellowish miracle I also take a beautiful bohemian hand-knitted rattan bag from the market…

When we finally end up in Jemma el Fna Square it is getting dark outside. And there is an incredible atmosphere. I haven’t seen so many people at one square in my life. We push through a mass of people grouped together to see what everyone is so curious about and reveal a small Berber concert. In another group cobras are tamed, there is a group of poker players, group for board games and easy sport challenges, dancers are dancing belly dances, men in women’s costumes are playing an entertaining show and old crones paint ladies hands with henna, or read their future from palms… and above all of this amazing bustle are stalls with fresh fruit juices, couscous, and Tajine! First we buy fresh pomegranate juice and then we choose a restaurant with a view of the bustle of the square below and enjoy my favorite lamb Tajine with prunes…

Another awakening to a beautiful Yasmine morning, a poolside breakfast, Moroccan tea… and we gotta pack our suitcases. We store our luggage at the reception and set out for another small walk around Medina, this time we are about to check touristic sights. As I mentioned already, Marrakesh is also called the Red City due to red house facades but I call it the Mandarin City. Mandarin and orange trees grow here in every garden and park! Just grab one… First we go to visit the mysterious Secret Garden, where we learn how much detailed work is behind the smallest mosaic and how cleverly irrigated such gardens are. Then we continue to Al Bahia Palace with the most impressive decorated doors and windows. Next stop are ruins remain of the Al Badi Palace and according to projections it must have been a surreal architectural work back in the days. But then another sultan sat on the throne, jealous of the luxury of his predecessor, and since the old sultan could not have more treasure than the new one, he had the palace destroyed. And indeed, such a pity, we could have another wonder of the world! Tombeux Saadians is actually a formidable decorated cemetery for VIPs and we also take a sneak look at the luxury hotel La Mamonia which you may know from Instagram. Unfortunately, we can’t afford to book a night at the hotel, but at least they allowed us to look into the gardens and public areas. However, if I happen to get married once I will probably want my honeymoon to take place right here. Unfortunately, the Ben Youssef Madrasa University which I was looking forward to at most out of all the monuments is closed for reconstruction work. Due to time frame we also miss the gardens and the house (nowadays museum) of fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent who apparently fell in love with Moroccan style, as well. Another reason to come back to Marrakesh another time…

(and not in Bali or Sri Lanka):

1. Accommodation like from fairy-tale. Click on riad.com or luxury-riads.com for an idea. And if you still have a doubt, go to the hotel websites: Es Saadi Marrakech Resort, Dar Karma, Royal Mansour Marrakech, Amanjena, La Sultana Signature Hotels or Hotel La Mamounia… So the honeymoon only in Morocco from now on?
2. Low prices. This may not seem to be true if you’ve just finish checking my list from point 1, but Morocco is indeed a relatively cheap country. Accommodation is the only higher investment in your vacation…
3. Moroccan cuisine is the best cuisine in the world. I guarantee that once you taste Tajine, you will immediately forget about Italian pasta and pizza. The Moroccans inherited the passion for food after their former French colonizers, and they just spiced it up a little. Or had it always been their feature?
4. No visas. If you do not plan to stay for longer than 90 days (it seems enough, but trust me, you won’t want to leave), visas are not needed for most of the countries.
5. Shopping at souk. It’s fascinating, it’s fun. As one of the few girls I really don’t enjoy shopping at all, but I would wander around Moroccan souks for days. Anyone who loves the style – I am soul of the artist, I like to travel and I prefer originality – will disappear in Moroccan souk as a child among colorful balls in a children’s park.
6. Home Decco. One holiday in Marrakesh and I bet you will completely reorganize your apartment.
7. Ouarzazate and Hollywood Studios. Less than three hours by car from Marrakesh and you can find yourself in the same places as Khaleese in Game of Thrones or Gladiator Russel Crowe.
8. Argane oil. Although it comes mainly from the area of Agadir, you can find good one in Marrakesh, as well. A perfect magic for your hair and skin.
9. Handmade leather products. Handbags, wallets, travel bags, belts… These come to Marrakesh mainly from the Fez’s but they are just perfect.
10. 10. Fruit orchards and oriental gardens. You will understand why Adam and Eve sinned for one apple. Pomegranate apple.

The blue town of Chefchaouen is also called the Blue Pearl of Morocco and it is a real gem among the cities in the world. However, in Morocco nothing is nothing for free, and such pearls especially…

Morocco is a truly beautiful country, and for many years it has been attracting me like 1000 and 1 tales of Araban Nights when I was a little girl. In addition to the strong oriental influence, there is also a little French touch, since this country used to be a French colony. Moroccans, as well as the French, can enjoy good food and other pleasures of life. It is also a very colorful country, in one day you can experience all four seasons at once. You will find beautiful oriental palaces and gardens, orange orchards, the ruthless Sahara desert, unbelievable forts growing out of the wilderness, and even goats that seem to grow on trees along with the argan nuts… If you are coming here for the first time, you should know that especially in the north of Morocco English is not enough, people speak only French and Arabic. And I also wish I had read that Moroccans are used to being tipped by tourists for every small service before traveling to Morocco and not after the trip. It would have cost us much less nerves…

Nothing works 

I’ve so much desired to go to Morocco that I partner up with similarly longing girls, although I haven’t known them personally until our trip. They are flight attendants like me, we have found each other on the EY travel buddy Facebook page. We all want to see Morocco and we have the same days off, so why not go together? Apart from me, there is a very energetic Italian girl Elena who drives like a pirate and can argue same well, even in Arabic! (She has a boyfriend from Jordan.) Furthermore, there is Romanian girl Emilia, who loves shopping, Moroccan delicacy “tajine” and can speak a decent French. Her Romanian friend Costina, like me, is an important peacemaker in our very diverse group. In the early morning we land to Casablanca and nothing works right already. At first, we have to wait for a long time at the exchange office till they finally serve us. Then we can’t find an agent who was supposed to bring us a rental car. Elena, our driver, advised me to book the cheapest company on the market (Economy cars) and it doesn’t seem like a right decision now. I prefer to book verified brands that have non-stop opened offices at airports. Eventually we find the agent and the car, but our Fiat Panda is in a deplorable condition. “Most important is, that it runs,” says Elena. She is going to drive, so I leave it to her judgment. Our first stop is Meknes. Along the way, however, I find out that Elena has no plan, not as she claimed, and we are more or less driving blind…

Meknes is an ancient city in the north of Morocco, which was once one of the four capitals of the former empire. Its historic center lays behind the gate of Bab Mansour. The oldest center of the city consists of old walls and a maze of narrow oriental streets, which today serve as classical Moroccan market with spices, oils, abayas or leather products. In a maze of streets, there is a very old mosque and Bou Inania Madrasa – old school, beautifully decorated with a specific Moroccan mosaic. The most interesting in the city is said to be the Mausoleum of Sultan Moulay Ismail with its oriental gardens, but unfortunately it is being restored at the time of our visit. So we rather go on towards the ancient ruins in Volubilis, we would like to reach the place before it gets dark…

Volubilis used to be an ancient city in the time of Roman Empire, which apparently reached the territory of North Africa. Volubilis was once the capital of Romano-Barbary Kingdom of Mauritania and, before that, the seat of the Phoenicians and the Carthaginians. As a monument to great times, there still stand huge ruins… With the sunset coming, this lookes even more impressive…

When the sun goes down, we decide to change the route so we have a whole day for Chefchaouen – the main destination of our trip. And instead of Fez, we head straight to north, closer to the Blue Pearl and keep Fez for the end of our trip. According to our new plan we want to dine and sleep in the nearby town of Auzanne, but the journey in the dark takes much longer than our navigation shows and in addition there is absolutely nothing in Auzanne except one overpriced hotel. In one local restaurant, where a few men watch football and it all looks pretty devastated, we finally convince the locals to allow us to connect to their wifi for a while. However, they are not very willing to help, because in Morocco nothing is for free, not even a help in need. After few minutes they just disconnect us. So I rather use my (not cheap) international data and after a short search I convince girls to continue driving to Chefchaouen. There is really nothing acceptable for overnight in whole area. Tired – not tired Elena has to grab the steering wheel and drive few more hours through a deserted landscape to Blue Town where I hope people are more friendly to lost tourists.

Night in the blue garden

When we arrive to Chefchaouen it is already half past midnight. We park in a small parking lot and use narrow stairs to the small hotel Molino Garden, which I managed to book on the way. It seems I’ve chosen well. Beautiful traditionally furnished guest house is cozy and all blue and in addition it’s situated right in the middle of the Blue Pearl. And we are way more friendly welcomed here. The only one that makes a problem is the car park guard who chases us to the hotel and asks for parking. However, the receptionist assures us that parking is included in the price and shows the item on the computer. After a quick shower and a cup of Moroccan min tea with honey, we literally pass out…

In the morning we are woken up by the smell of unique Moroccan breakfast – fresh orange juice (oranges grow well in Morocco), cheese, honey, homemade jam, olives, eggs, fresh bread, Moroccan “Beghir” pancakes, and my favorite Mesamen (different kind of pancakes/flat bread) and of course Moroccan min tea. The sun is pleasantly shining, we are having our breakfast outside on the terrace in the garden and we don’t really want to leave the table but the blue streets of Chefchaouen call…

A well-started day is ruined for a while by a parking guard who asks us for money again. We can’t convince him we already payed for the parking at the hotel. At that time I didn’t know that the guard asked for an extra tip, as it’s common in Morocco. Here you need to tip everyone and for everything. Guard starts threatening us. If we don’t pay, he will scratch our car. Elena, however, isn’t intimidated. She immediately takes a picture of him explaining that if anything happens to our car, he ends up at the police office. And this worked. Tourists are protected in Morocco. I have heard such a story that the King of Morocco once complained to his French friends why there are no more tourists coming to Morocco. The French replied that it bothers them that at every step someone begs them for money. The king decided to disguise himself like French tourist and set out to explore Moroccan streets. And he really found out later that the tourists really don’t have it easy in his country. Moroccans have made ATM machines out of them. And so begging has been banned, tourists have started enjoying various protective privileges and the situation has improved considerably. However, in the less touristic north, the new rules seem to be harder to settle…

Let’s forget about one annoying guard and entangle into the beautiful and completely blue streets of the town. In many places, the quiet streets have turned into a bazaar with oriental goods and souvenirs. Right at the first store, an old gentleman in traditional clothing with a long white beard sells beautifully handmade leather bags. He is very nice, helpful and even speaks English very well. We are enjoying trading with him. As we are passing other shops we find out more and more difficult to resist beautiful oriental goods. Various leather products, but especially original bags and handbags, carpets, bracelets, earrings, necklaces, silk scarves, lanterns, jewelry boxes, bowls or mirrors behind carved doors frames… My mission is to buy a bottle of 100% Argan oil for myself and for my mother, because we’re both addicted. It is a brilliant thing not only for your facial wrinkles, but it also serves as body lotion or hair oil that supports their growth…

Later, just the smell of Tajine pull us away from the bazaar. Tajine is a Moroccan specialty that I can’t resist. It is actually something like a stew that has been cooked for hours at low temperatures in special ceramic dish. Chicken, lamb or beef are cooked in bowls along with vegetables, aromatic spices and often fruits such as prunes or grapes. You really have to taste it once! I bet you will love Moroccan cuisine. The summoner in front of the restaurant promises us Tajine with salad and water for 25 dirhams only, which sounds very appealing. The food that they serve to us is really delicious. Mysteriously, however, our final bill get increased by almost double price than we were promised at the beginning. We really believed that everything what they brought to the table was included in our deal. Well, welcome to Morocco! The only attenuating circumstance in this case is that these are indeed minimal costs. In euro terms, they have not asked us more than two euros per person on top of our deal. But as Elena says, what about the principle!?

After lunch we get back to the blue streets for few more hours and just with the sunset we sit back to our car to leave the town. We wanted to avoid driving in the dark through winding paths in the middle of nowhere, but we weren’t able to leave beautiful Chefchaouen earlier. And why is the city all blue? There are several theories. The most widespread is, in my opinion, the least likely that residents of Chefchaouen painted their houses in blue to scare away mosquitoes. The other theories are much more true to me. The tradition of painting houses in blue occurs in the Jewish communities, which in this way wanted to differentiate themselves from the other non-Jewish inhabitants and at the same time to express their love for God and heaven, which is represented by the blue color. As this theory says blue color to Chefchaouen was brought by Jewish immigrants around 1930. However, would these Jews, in these difficult times, when they weren’t much welcomed anywhere in the world, be willing to attract so much attention? Blue in Islam represents happiness, hope and optimism. It is also the color of the water and in dry Islamic countries the sources of drinking water were highly valued. Close to Chefchaouen there is a waterfall with drinking water. In addition, blue in the hot days cools down and in addition it attracts attention – of buyers or tourists nowadays…

Around ten in the evening, the city lights will finally emerge in front of us after a long dark drive in no-man’s lands. In front of us is Fez, the oldest and after Casablanca the second largest city in Morocco. The historic center of Fez is again formed by narrow stone streets, typical oriental bazaar and walls, so we have a problem to find a suitable parking place. So we have to leave Elena stuck with a car in one of the narrow streets, we take our luggage and go to find Dar Tahri for overnight. The Dars are actually typical Moroccan burgher houses with rich mosaic decoration and patio inside the house. Nowadays they are mainly used as vacation villas and hostels for tourists. First we knock on some Dar Tahrij’s door where we are obviously not expected. Then we find out that we are at the wrong Dar. One guy offers us his helping hand to show us the way to the right one, then he helps me to find Elena in a maze of old streets, walks us to the proper parking lot and then back to our guesthouse. Of course, he wasn’t  doing it out of kindness, but he asks for money. I’m no longer surprised. The helping hand is never for free here. Our right Dar is a huge old traditionally furnished house and back in the days it must have been beautiful but tonight it looks a bit scary and neglected. However, I notice that at many places it’s being reconstructed… But tonight we sleep as babies and no ghosts have a chance.

Fez and pigeon poo

Our last day we start with a fantastic Moroccan breakfast again – fresh orange juice, cheese, honey, homemade jam, olives, eggs, fresh bread, beghir, mesamen and of course, mint tea. I could imagine having such a breakfast every day! After breakfast we load our bags into the car and we are ready to discover the beauty of Fez. However, we get stuck at local bazaar for a few hours, mainly because we cannot resist the offered goods. Leather bags, belts, wallets and other products are here even more beautiful, sophisticated and cheaper. Fez is the capital where the animal skin is processed. We also visit one of the many traditional family businesses, the so-called “tanneries.” “Tannery” is a factory where animal skin is processed and dyed. It often belongs to one family for generations and spreads out on the courtyards behind the house. This is where the bad smell comes from, because in Fez, pigeon shit is used to process the skin. Yes, that big container in the middle of the factory is full of pigeon shit! Pigeon droppings make the skin softer and more workable. It may be a very ecological and functional form of leather processing, but the handbag I bought my mother in Fez was hanging on our balcony for weeks before my mum was able to wear it. We couldn’t get rid of the strange smell… My was hanging in the air in shop for longer time so the smell was gone…

In the afternoon we head to Rabat, from where we want to take the evening flight back to Abu Dhabi to avoid an unnecessary night in Casablanca. Moreover, we are closer to Rabat. We call a car rental number, which should work 24 hours a day, that we need to return the car half a day earlier and preferably at a branch in Rabat instead of Casablanca. But no one is answering our call for a long time, then a sleepy voice finally but reluctantly tell us that he would call us later. We are waiting a few hours more for the return call, but no one calls back and when we are calling, no one answers and we need to return the car to catch the flight! It’s Friday afternoon and Moroccans are obviously not in mood to bother with customer service. I start to realize why Morocco is so far behind Europe despite its beauty. People are lazy to work. When we were with my friends in Iceland and we needed to arrange something, rent or return the car on another date, I got a reply to my e-mail within ten minutes, even in the evening during weekend! Moroccans would like to get more money from tourism, but they don’t really work on it… At the last moment, after trying all the possible phone numbers that we found on the company’s website, we finally successfully connect with the boss himself who arrange what we need. Just in last minute we are able to return the car and then check in at the airport on time…