Goodbye my beloved San Francisco! Etihad has been canceling flights to this attractive destination since November… So I am glad that I got one of the last layovers and I can say goodbye to my favorite city in the world…

Already in the bus on the way from the airport to the hotel Zephyr (I really recommend for the stay – the perfect hotel in the perfect place) the crew start making plans how to use their 48 hours in San Francisco. I’m not involved in the conversation, just watching the way out of the window in silence, reflecting my own plans in my mind. This is my fourth visit, and all the trips to Sausalito and Napa Valley that my colleagues are considering I’ve done already. Moreover, I’m sure that I will enjoy my last date with my favorite city just solo, by myself. Only me and San Francisco…

On two wheels

It is early in the morning, so my first steps lead just one gate further to the iHop bar, where they serve a legendary American breakfast 24 hours a day – eggs in all ways, fried bacon, puffed maple syrup pancakes, French toasts, waffles and endless coffee. After such a breakfast I feel I need to walk it out, so I decide to book one of the many Fisherman Wharf’s bikes for a whole day ($ 30 for 24 hours). Crossing the famous Golden Gate Bridge on the bike is said to be an experience without which you cannot just leave San Francisco. Many tourists take bicycles and go for trips to the other side of the bridge, where the charming town of Sausalito lies. My plan, however, is the hidden Kirby Cove Beach. It is also located on the other side of the bridge, but on its left, more hilly side.

Kirby Cove Beach

In the rental company, I get an old city bike with a basket, but in good condition. And I’m glad they’re not forcing me to take a helmet, too. I get on my old-school bike and follow the cycle path around the coast to the famous bridge. Outside is a beautiful, pleasant, sunny late summer weather. Fisherman Wharf and all the parks in the area are full of people with their heads up. The spectacular Air Force show is taking place in a clear blue sky, and it is also a wonderful weekend where Americans like to spend outside. After a while, I stop seeing why bikes are so popular in San Francisco. The steep streets of the city give my seating muscles a hard time. But as soon as I reach the Golden Gate Bridge, I stop moaning to enjoy the beautiful view. The bridge is quite long, but the worst work-out is still ahead of me. The bridge leads to the edge of a steep hill that needs to be climbed first so I can enjoy the ride spirally down to the Kirby Cove Camp, where the picturesque beach is located. By the time I finally cross the gates of the camp, I’m pretty red in my face. I did not expect such a warm-up. There are a few American campers in the camp. A group of young people are sitting in a circle on the beach and having a cheerful discussion. In the bushes I see a few “parked” bikes. So I’m not the only brave! However, I am the only one who has reached this place on the city bike and not on the outdoor bike like the others! I enjoy the beach, sit on the wooden stump, absorb the atmosphere and recharge. The sun is slowly setting down and there is still not easy way back ahead of me, but the atmosphere was definitely worth the hard work…

Hustle and bustle

When I arrive totally destroyed to the hotel, I meet colleagues in the lobby who are just gathering for dinner. I grab last energy left and decide to join them. We head to seafood restaurant at the Ghirardeli Candy Square (where the famous chocolate and ice cream was once made, and where a chocolate factory takes the place till nowadays). Fortunately, the restaurant is located just a few blocks from the hotel… The next day I feel my butt so bad, that although I have paid for bike until 4pm, I rather go to get it back before the time. Today I prefer to walk. I walk through the crazy Little Italy and China Town, which are particularly busy today. In Little Italy, all the restaurants put their tables out into the streets, in the China Town I run into Chinese markets where you can find anything possible. Roads are closed for cars today and the streets are full of people. And there is an endless parade with a float with a stage in its head. The rock band and Elvis Presley imitator is followed by a float with all American Misses, then cheerleaders, marching band, veteran cars etc… just everything possible what represents America. In a while I’m on my way to Zigzag Lombard Street, where you get a beautiful view of the iconic steep Russian Hill street, which you might know from the posters. Then I head to Union Square, where I buy my favorite Kiehl‘s facial products at Westfield. And from there I take the bus as close as possible to Baker Beach…

Baker beach

I consider Baker beach to be one of the most beautiful beaches in San Francisco. From here it is one of the most beautiful views of the sunset and Golden Gate Bridge. The beach is basically located opposite Kirby Cove, before entering the bridge, on its left. It is quite extensive and there are a lot of people, although the weather is not good for swimming. Some are picnicking or playing beach volleyball, and a few brave ones are bathing in the cold sea. With sunset, more and more visitors come with a camera in hand. I also spotted few newlyweds with a professional photographer behind them who came here to take romantic photos for their wedding album. And among them, barefoot, free and happy myself… When the sun slowly begins to set down, I sing in my mind: “Goodbye my San Francicsco…”

Personally, I believe that everyone in the world has a city that resonates with their soul more than others. My team is definitely San Francisco… In the streets I feel all the muses that have inspired artists and musicians from all over the world for years. San Francisco definitely smells of freedom, art and freedom of expression. And when you go to the other side of the Golden Gate Bridge, a completely different world opens up in front of you: gigantic redwoods that touch the clouds, dense forests, wild streams, far-reaching vineyards and the taste of wine. There is still plenty to discover around San Francisco…

 

Breakfast at iHop

Here we go again, landing to California’s coolest city. Management has changed the hotel in which we used to stay as a crew, but this time exceptionally for the better. We are so excited when the bus driver stops right in the center, at Fisherman’s Wharf in front of Zephyr Hotel. We couldn’t wish for a better location. I can only recommend: in addition to the great location, this hotel is also very stylish and cozy. And right next to the hotel is famous American iHop bar, where me and my colleague Karin from Sweden go for a typical American breakfast. You certainly know it from the movies: cozy boxes by the windows or sitting in the bar, pancakes with maple syrup, eggs in all ways and filtered coffee in the kettle, which is filled up by waitress every time you finish your cup. Fabulous! After breakfast, I wrap myself into blanket and fall asleep for a few hours. Then I go to Union Sqaure for some Christmas presents shopping. At 6 pm, I meet with Karen and another colleague Adham from Jordan. The goal is to have dinner at one of the best restaurants in San Francisco, at Scoma’s at Fisherman’s Wharf: fresh seafood, a long tradition and a stylish retro design… After dinner, I’m rushing to bed again because I have to get up very early the next day. Through the Aviator app, I booked a trip to Yosemite National Park. Can’t wait!

Yosemite National Park

Early in the morning, I am stepping outside the hotel with a cup of coffee in my hand. It’s very chilly. Fifteen minutes later, a minivan picks me up and ahead me is a great day trip to Yosemite National Park! I usually try to avoid any organized tours, but in America without a car and driving license, you have no chance. However, I am lucky that this is a small group of eight people, and our enthusiastic driver – guide knows the most beautiful places around. For people with limited time, like me,  this is an ideal solution. However, if you stay longer in San Francisco, be sure to spend more time at Yosemite, rent a car, and explore on your own! A three-hour drive to the National Park runs faster when our lady driver starts sharing interesting facts about California and the places we go through. When, after three hours, we finally pass through the gates of the National park, the environment takes my breath away. Such a beautiful nature you don’t see very time! 

Bridalveil Waterfall

First we stop at the forest, from where we walk to the tunnel in the tree that is so huge that it serves as a gate. Once upon a time, in the golden fever era, when hundreds of adventurers came to California to look for the gold, the “goldendiggers” were passing under this tree tunnel. The next stop is the most beautiful view in my life – the view of entire Yosemite and the Bridalveil waterfall, which is connected to an interesting superstition. Native Americans used to believe that the waterfall has a female soul, and when a single woman has a breath of air around this waterfall, she will soon get married. So I don’t know, should I inhale deeply or rather hold my breath? 🙂 Next to the Yosemite Falls we have a lunch break. In the cottages near the waterfalls, there is a hostel, souvenir shops and a simple canteen for tourists. I have a lunch, too, however, quickly, just to have more time for a walk around the waterfalls. After lunch we stop at the steep el Capitan rock, which is still a big challenge for many rock climbers thanks to its smooth walls. And after this stop, unfortunately, our trip comes to an end… But forever I feel like this was one of the most beautiful places in the world, I have ever seen. And another three-hour drive back to San Francisco. When we come to the bridge and the city on the other side of the coast lights up, radio in bus plays an old song: Otis Redding – Sittin On The Dock Of The Bay. The singer, like us, watches the coast from the other side and sings about his love for the city of San Francisco…

DAY 1

I’m looking for a husband

The first day in San Francisco begins with eggs, bacon, hot chocolate and pancakes. 🙂 After that I need to sleep (after a busy night flight) and then time to go to streets! I have my plans, I want to see all the places I know from the familiar postcard pictures with my own eyes. Since I have not found the same spirit among my crew, I’m happy to go on my own and enjoy my favorite city by myself. Before the flight I was often making jokes that I wanted to find a husband in San Francisco and as soon as I’m out in the streets, I get few proposals 🙂 One black guy waiting at the bus stop even offers me a marriage together with his American passport. 😀 At least he makes me laugh.

Pier 39 and seals

Again with a map and notes from our hotel “Bell boy” Im wandering around, soon able to read public transportation system even without his instructions. The first stop is PIER 39, where I want to see lazy seals. Then I want to find another PIER which I know from the pictures. I just don’t know its number. Finally it’s PIER 7, so quite far away! But I’m proud of being able to find it. The weather is amazing today, the beautiful sunshine at Fisherman Wharf. On the way back to the hotel, I take a quick walk through China Town, Lombard Street and Russian Hill with beautiful views. There I find bookshop called “Forbidden Books” at the corner of the Chinese District. It is a beatnik’s museum and a bookstore in one with an unforgettable atmosphere. They sell old discs, comics and first editions of famous beatniks books such as Jack Karouac and Allen Ginsberg. Lombard Street I find only when it is getting dark outside. The steep, hilly streets are a pretty decent maze! And a nice workout! 🙂

DAY 2

Muir Woods

Next day I hardly get up, I have such a pain in my muscles! But I have to get up, at eight o’clock I have pick up for a bus trip to Muir Woods Park and the town of Sausalito on the other side of the bridge. Our guide and driver is an old and very funny Russian guy who likes to break the rules. On the way to Muir Woods I find out that San Francisco is the most expensive city in the United States. Renting an apartment will cost you way more than one in Manhattan in New York! I also learn why San Francisco is so cold. That’s for the winds coming from Alaska. Heavy fogs are results of differences between the cold ocean and the hot Californian lands. Summer is therefore not the happiest time for a vacation. In shorts you will see only unprepared tourists! 🙂 But during the fall months of September, October and November is the city most beautiful. Yet in my most favorite season! Also spring is suitable for a stay but in the winter it usually rains constantly. But the locals enjoy the rain because they know it will not rain again for the next eight months. Everywhere we pass by we see trees, but the ground looks very dry. Muir Woods Redwood Natioanl Park is a park that allows tourists to explore a piece of forest full of gigantic red sequoia trees. I feel that elves and giants still live here! I feel so small here… 🙂

Sausalito

On the way back from Muir Woods, we pass by to Sausalito, one of three picturesque towns set in a rocky bay along the bank of the Golden Gate Bridge. There are plenty of art galleries and Leppert’s ice cream store, which has the best ice-cream in the US. From Sausalito you can take a ferry back to San Francisco for $ 11, but I choose a faster and warmer bus because I have other plans with the city. The driver will first take us to the cliff where we have a beautiful view over the Golden Gate Bridge. Then, through the city, we reach Fisherman Wharf, where our trip ends. But he will also draw attention to a small restaurant in the Little Italy district called Stinky Rose, where all the food is made of garlic, even desserts! I gotta try out next time!

Hippies and Painted Ladies

From Fisherman Wharf, I take a walk to the hotel for a new map of the city (I’ve lost first one), and I happen to find a gateway to the China Town and the beautiful street with pink lanterns. There I buy traditional Chinese dress. After this trip, there are only two places I still want to visit – Painted Ladies and Height Ashbury – popular area of Hippies. I take a bus to Ashbury, but on the way coming back to hotel Im wandering around and admiring crazy shops. I guess every weirdo in the world can find something interesting for themselves. There are shops for transvestites, trance music fans, hippies, Rastafarians, Goths (“Little Creepy Things” store) or nostalgic people. To me the most interesting was The Fashion Museum, where you can buy costumes from every age. In my view, you can find here every style that has ever been worn. Also shop assistant looks like he comes from an another time with his mustache and a watch on the chain. On the way back to my hotel I find also Painted Ladies. The park overlooking the old-fashioned houses is being renovated, but the view is still worth it. Also other streets around are full of funny colorful villas and houses. The day is slowly coming to an end, and I start to realize that I have walked all San Francisco in two days. 🙂

CITY OF MY SOUL

I believe everyone has city of their soul somewhere in the world. A city that vibrates with your soul more than others, that is attracted to you magically. This is definitely my San Francisco!

Every morning, it’s dark and foggy, just like my mood when I have to get up early. Its full of uphills and downhills, like the sinusoid of the life. It is surrounded by ocean, because I love the sound of the sea, the breathtaking nature, the vineyards, it is full of cozy cafes, galleries and bookstores and other odd things to exactly satisfy all aspects of my soul – the caffeiner, bohemian and the forest woman. When I walk down the streets of San Francisco, I still feel in the air a message of  Beatniks like Jack Kerouac or Allan Ginsberg, who once formed the Beat generation.

“Beatniks were famous for books, black turtlenecks, bongs, beret and dark sunglasses, celebrating a lifestyle that was dangerous fun…”

 

DAY 1

I have to admit that America has never fascinated me. I have found Americans as boring, stupid consumers. I have heard about the beautiful nature, but beautiful nature we have in Europe as well, plus a rich history. But after visiting San Francisco, everything has changed. San Francisco is different. This city is probably not America at all!

California is cold!

Immediately after my arrival, I was shocked. We are in California in the middle of summer, and I’m feeling cold! The first prejudice immediately flies into a trash bin. There is drought in California (no rainfall for several months), but definitely not hot, especially not in San Francisco! Mark Twain also said the coldest summer he’d ever experienced was right in San Francisco. Most of the day it’s foggy and really windy. Only when the sun appears on the sky, you can put off your coat and scarf.

American breakfast

We start the day with a typical American breakfast – some eggs, bacon, toast with jam, pancakes with maple syrup and a cup of hot cocoa. Because we have just done 16 hour long flight, next steps go to our beds. But in the afternoon I meet with two of my colleagues in the hotel lobby. The goal of today is set – the famous Golden Gate Bridge. All of us very well-groomed: myself, Philippine Phoebe and Japanese Natsumi – all dressed in summer bohemian outfits, all apparently in San Francisco for the first time. Some of the crew advised us that we don’t have to spend money on taxi, so we leave the hotel with the map and notes. The “Bell Guy” is an old gentleman as a hotel himself and he can patiently respond to all our questions.

Golden Gate Bridge

We wait at the bus stop for a few minutes, then we catch the line number 38. The ticket costs us 2 and a quarter of a dollar and is valid for less than three hours, depends on the driver. Coins to coins, banknotes to the special box and the driver will give you a time-limited ticket. It’s good to have a change in your pocket, because the machine doesn’t give you change. The bus is old, makes creepy sounds, sitting are on the sides. In addition, it is packed with strange people – Hispanics, Chinese, Asian… Under the windows are hanging some cables, which when you pull, the driver gets a signal that you want to stop and get off. During our journey, the bus stops constantly, and so it takes ages. We seem to have missed our stop, and so in panic we are jumping out of the bus and looking for the right direction. A barista in a café on the corner guides us speaking Japanese like Natsumi. Outside is such a cold wind that we want to cry! As soon as we get off on the stop to the Golden Gate Bridge, we go to warm up in a coffeeshop with a cup of hot chocolate. Then we’re ready for a series of mandatory photos with the famous bridge in the background. However, the half of the bridge can not be seen at all! It’s covered by fog. Who wants a picture like from well-known posters, has to buy a postcard in a souvenir shop. 🙂

Cosmoplitan San Francisco

Next stop is the Museum of Fine Arts. A beautiful replica of a historic building that originally stays somewhere in Greece. The weather suddenly clears up, suddenly no fog, just the blue sky and the warm sun. There are swans on the lake, the youth is sitting on the grass, the wedding photo shooting is going on. After little warm up in the sun we’re ready to look for a bus stop from where we can get to Fisherman Wharf. The famous harbor, where the seafood used to be so popular. Even today, the seashore is full of restaurants offering the fresh seafood, but not from local waters, nowadays all the seafood there comes from Alaska. Somehow, we can not find our bus stop, so we ask for help one lady walking her dogs in her flip-flops. She offers to drive us there. “You know what? It’s just 10 minutes from here, I’ll give you a lift!“ “Don’t worry, I don’t want to kidnap you, I have kids in the car!” she laughs when she sees our shocked expressions. We didn’t expect such a hospitality! The lady is very friendly, open and very talkative. In a few minutes in car, we find out how much cost the apartments in the city, where they have the best ice cream, and that our Natsumi can find a Japanese husband in San Francisco very easily. Apparently it is very multicultural city. Our companion has father from Egypt, mother from Sweden, British husband living in Libya and a Japanese brother-in-law. After a short sightseeing, the family drop us in front of the Scoma restaurant – the best in the city in terms of price and quality. First of all, we walk around the place and look at souvenirs until our stomachs can’t wait anymore. The Scoma Restaurant, though looks very ordinary from outside, but very cozy inside. After 10 minutes of waiting, the waiter finds a table for us. The interior is furnished in retro style, as if nothing has changed since 60s. Everywhere on the walls are hanging photographs of its famous visitors. I also have found Sinatra! Natsumi orders a crab, myself and Pheobe go for seafood pasta. All really tastes great!

Famous cable car

After dinner, we plan a trip back to our hotel with a typical old tram, but outside is so cold again and the lines for drive are endless, so we give up and take a taxi. After a successful day I easily pass out. It has been an amazing day. It took just a few hours for me to definitely fall in love with San Francisco…

DAY 2

Napa Valley

Next day early morning – myself, Phoebe, our captain and our Food & Beverage manager are taking a tour to the Napa Valley wine region. I admit that I did not want to go at first place, but I’m glad I have changed my mind, even thought it costs 90 $. Who knows when will I fly again with such a great crew willing to go for such a trip? Experiences are far more valuable than saved money. And the price of the trip includes excellent California wine tasting! In less than an hour bus takes us to completely different world than San Francisco. The weather is beautiful, sunny and so hot! This is California as I always pictured! As soon as we get out in Napa, I’m excited! I feel like in Tuscany! All day we just taste wine and walk through the beautiful vineyards. For lunch we choose the restaurant with the sunny terrace and enjoy typical American burgers. I suddenly want to find a husband with such a vineyard in Napa Valley to start every day with a glass of wine. From Napa, we get back to the city at about six o’clock. My tired and tipsy colleagues got directly to the hotel, I still have some energy to walk through the sloping alleys. I’m looking for the right view of the famous Alcatraz prison. After a short walk I can feel my butt muscles. San Francisco’s streets seem to be more effective than an hour in gym! When I’m thinking of a day later in bed, I’m putting San Francisco on the list of the most beautiful places in the world…

So it’s here, my first flight to the US, and right into the famous LA! Finally, I’m going to step on the so-called continent of the new world, freedom and democracy, and visit the city of fulfilled dreams. I’m going to see all those places that are well known from TV series and movies…

From shiny Hollywood, I’m away just 16 hours of flight across the North Pole. On board the aircraft, however, nothing indicates that we are flying to Los Angeles. All our passengers are not just tanned but obviously come from India. But no wonder. Indians are everywhere in the world, especially on a big American continent and through Abu Dhabi they have the best connection. Even though we took off early in the morning, around the midday (local time) we are already in California. Thanks to the time difference we saved almost all day. At least I don’t have to regret a few hours I desperately need for sleeping. Later we all meet in the hotel lobby. Our Cabin Manager (by the way, Indian) suggests to rent a car and go for a trip to Las Vegas. Most crew members aren’t in L.A. for the first time, so they enthusiastically agree. It sounds tempting, but something tells me that my first visit to California should be more about Los Angeles and Hollywood itself. But first the dinner. As my companion is a strict vegetarian, we end up (funny) in the Indian restaurant around the corner. 🙂 No matter, tomorrow I have all day to explore true American America!

 

On the second day, most of my colleagues are probably recovering from the first night in Las Vegas, while the other two colleagues are going to Disneyland, which is just around the corner of the hotel. We are staying in the Anaheim area, unfortunately far from the center of the shinny L.A. What to do if you are in America alone without a car or even driving license? The only option left is to join the other tourists and book a “bus tour”, an organized trip. (I booked a trip through the Viator app.) I’m usually not a great fan of these kind of tours, I prefer to wander on my own, but this time I have no choice. And finally I really don’t regret it. The funny driver takes us through all the well-known places. And for every place he has some funny or interesting story to share. We’re passing great movie studios, then Rodeo Drive, a shopping district with the most expensive stores where Julia Roberts was refused in the movie Pretty Woman, and also we are going through Beverly Hills, where Brenda and Dylan come from. In fact, rich families of lawyers and doctors use to live in this area. Film screen celebrities are rather hiding in their villas high up in the hills. However, just a short walk from the Walk of Fame, there is a street with a famous Italian restaurant, which you can just zoom in and behind the dark sunglasses and under the caps that are deeply set to forehead, surely you will know a few well-known faces. Coffee costs about half of your salary, but if you succeed to hook Matt Damon, it’s not such a bad investment, right? 🙂 Our driver and guide in one eventually leaves us on the Walk of Fame and gives us three hours to map all the stars. Just like movie stars, pavement stars are also some polished and gleaming, others fit in dust. I can not find the star of my favorite Leonardo Dicaprio, and Matt Damon’s stars is marked by pigeon shit. But I have found the Robert Downey Junior’s fingertips and footprints and I’ll tell you, he’s got a big foot! What does it mean? 🙂

I always wanted to visit the Wax Museum and Hollywood come to me as the most suitable place. Right here I find out that Leo is quite tall, but Penelope Cruz is incredibly short. Later, in a souvenir shop, I buy an replica of Oscar award for the best boyfriend and run back to our bus. Our next stop is Santa Monica. The driver takes us to a pedestrian zone full of fashionable boutiques with typical bohemian Californian outfits. Nice walk leads to the beach and to the pier, which I know well from several movies and TV series. And then the beach! Just like from the Baywatch series I used to love as a teenager! The same watch, the same red shorts and the same red floater. Mitch Buchannon does exist!!! In Santa Monica, unfortunately, our trip ends. In front of me just the way back to the hotel. But I am looking forward to seeing the landscape through the window, after all it is a real dream factory…