People would say, it is a city of Pablo Escobar. But it is much more than that! It is a city of eternal spring for a pleasant weather all year long. It’s a city of green heigh hills, winding roads and passionate Colombian women. It’s also a city of one of the most beautiful flower festival in the world. 

In last 15 days we visited 4 countries, while in Colombia we stopped twice. Medellin wasn’t our initial plan, but the destiny took us there anyway. “Me gusta buena Cocaina,” was the first sentence in Spanish one Czech Backpacker – we met on our journey – had learnt. Every time before our vacation we mentioned to somebody we were going to Colombia, reaction was like: “Colombia? Medellin? Pablo Escobar?” As I said, our plan was only Cartagena initially, but when we were stuck in La Paz in Bolivia and our vacation was slowly getting over, we found out that it would be way easier to get back to Europe through Medellin than through Bogota (as we travel on stand-by ticket, are chances depend on load of a flight). Avoiding Bogota actually helped us to save one more day, thanks to great connection to Europe from Medellin we didn’t know about before. And since we need to land in Medellin, we decided to stay there for two more nights. Just out of curiosity. Pablo Escobar has stuck in our minds.

Weather in Medellin because of high altitude is always pleasantly warm and it rains a lot and often. That’s why is always so green everywhere and that’s why coca leaves doing so well in Colombian jungles. Medellin is almost known all over the world for its flower festival Feria de las Flores happening in August and other natural attraction in suburb regions like coffee plantations or Guatapé. I’m so surprised how beautiful and green is scenario behind the car window when we are sitting in Uber taxi on our way from the airport to the city. Due to winding and steep roads it takes almost an hour to reach our hotel. We booked the night in stylish Gallery hotel in city center which is not very safe area as I’ve heard. But I’m falling in love with the hotel design. 

As we still remember delicious taste of food in Cartagena, we can’t wait for another sample of traditional food. Bill, my travel buddy, picked from the Trip advisor some restaurant in our neighborhood with a long tradition. It looks old, but posh and empty. Food isn’t very nice to me. They have only Spanish menu, so we pick according to pictures. I ordered some stew with lot of fat I don’t like in meet served with avocado and rice on the side. And Bill gets food poisoning few hours later. 

While Bill is still suffering from the food poisoning and feel very weak, I’m having my breakfast at most beautiful restaurant ever. It is located on the rooftop of our hotel and the design is a mix of retro, art and Colombian tradition. The cup of proper Colombian coffee can’t miss on the table. But what to do next? For a beautiful natural wonder Guatapé or for coffee plantations you need at least full day tour which we don’t have time for. Plan was visiting Comuna 13 area, but Bill is sick and internet is full of advices like: “Don’t go there alone, especially if you are gringa (means white girl).” We have booked one Pablo Escobar tour for the afternoon, but it’s to late to arrange anything for the morning. And it’s so sunny today! So I decided to risk it. Extra money inside the bra, Uber taxi and let’s go… Comuna 13 is supposedly most dangerous are in Medellin full of poor people and street gangs. The government knew that they have to do something about it so they gave to street gangsters paints and brushes. And since one part of Comuna 13 turned to graffiti art gallery, it has become very touristic, then guarded by police and in the end of the day I feel very safe there even as a solo girl! But I wouldn’t dare to go there in the evening or turn off the main path which is defined by escalators (and even free wifi zone!). At every corner I see some police officers or tourist groups. From time to time I inconspicuously join one of them to learn something about the local culture… 

When I come back to our hotel, Bill starts to feel better and so we are ready for a Pablo Escobar tour! People of Medellin aren’t very happy about being associated with Pablo Escobar. And despite the fact Pablo Escobar tours are very popular with tourists, travel agencies are not allowed to promote them. We booked one half-day private tour (for 40$ per person) just to know how Colombian people see him, to compare popular Netflix series with reality. Our local guide will take us to his luxurious prison (we can see it only from outside), the roof where he was caught and killed and the grave where he is buried next to his mother, most loyal bodyguard and other family members. While we are driving across Medellin, it’s heavily raining. We are recognizing some stories we know from cinema and we hear the opinion of local Colombian. Maybe there are some who take him as a hero but most of Colombians are apparently ashamed of him. The day in Medellin we finishing at small stall where our guide has taken us to try the best empanadas in the city. The cheapest food I ever had and I can go back to opinion that Colombian food is great… Next morning after breakfast we are already flying back to Europe and Abu Dhabi. 

Colombia is full of eye-popping images that can steal your breath. But if you need to pick just one place, then let it be Cartagena. Ornate Spanish colonial architecture dripping with tropical flowers, the Palenqueras and Caribbean vibes are just a few reasons Cartagena de Indias is one of the most photographed cities in Colombia.

Me and my best travel buddy, friend Bill are both born in November and there is only one birthday gift which could make us truly happy – a proper travel trip. But where to go? We have about two weeks of vacation so let’s go somewhere very far. And can you go further than to Easter Island? I doubt so! This mysterious island will be our main travel goal together with mysterious Bolivia. But checking the best flight connections from Abu Dhabi we have found out we need to make it through Bogota in Colombia. Seems like all flight paths to Latin America meet in Bogota. And once we need to change our flight there why not to tick off another country from our bucket list and explore it a bit more than just strolling around duty free shops at the airport? Due to limited time we have picked the destination everybody finds the most picturesque from all the country – Cartagena. 

Six hours in business class from Abu Dhabi to Munich with Etihad Airways. Then short stop at the airport in Munich. Then 12 hours in business class from Munich to Bogota with Avianca. Thanks god for our discounted staff tickets! I’m so amazed by the approach of all staff of Avianca airlines (from ground staff to cabin crew on board) and their service. I would say, the most crew friendly airline ever. They treat us like their direct colleagues not like someone annoying who paid for the ticket less than half of the price… After that we are changing again. This time only one last hour on board the plane to Cartagena. Even though the most of our journey we spent sleeping (or eating) in comfy business class, still we are completely dead. And in Cartagena is soooo hot.

It’s early morning when we’re arriving to Cartagena. We are taking Uber and heading to our hotel in heart of Cartagena. Casa Baluarte is the name of our new place for overnight. It has beautiful colonial style but forget about the hot water in the shower. In Cartagena you won’t find many places with proper hot shower. Anyway it’s too early to check-in, so we will just use common facilities to change. It wasn’t easy to pack for this trip. Cartagena has Caribbean weather, Easter Island is in eternal spring and Bolivia is going to be freezing! Think about your itinerary when you are packing. You might be squeezed in super tiny bathroom trying to dig out something suitable for current weather from the bottom of your suitcase. After this small challenge we are ready to explore. Without any plan or goal we are just wandering around Old Town. It is beautiful but we can’t enjoy it fully as we are super tired and with raising sun it gets extremely hot. Soon we are giving-up and taking break in the shade of the park. Since I tried the taste of Colombian grenadilla (something like a passion fruit but way better) for the first time in Peru, I’m dreaming about it. And it’s impossible to find it in Abu Dhabi. I’ll make Bill to buy us 2 kilos which we finish in a short moment! The best fruit I ever ever ever ever had! 

In the streets of Old Town we are passing by many Palenqueras – so they call beautiful Colombian women dressed in bright costumes, balancing bowls of fruit atop their heads. They tend to cluster in shady spots in the squares and parks where they chat up travelers, pose for photos (only for some tip) and serve up some of the sweetest fruits you’ll ever eat. You can’t leave Cartagena without taking any photos with these ladies… 

Soon due to weather we are sweating and feeling super exhausted. For the late lunch we will just pick the first restaurant we like. It is located near our hotel in Getsemani – the most traditional area in Cartagena with many popular graffiti murals, restaurants and bars. Our restaurant has beautiful garden terrace with a fan and Italian food is served. Not Colombian but not bad at all for two tired and hungry bodies. I hear salsa music from every second bar we are passing by. But despite the fact it sounds appealing to me we have decided to go back to hotel, check-in, have some shower (cold, of course), make some plans for tomorrow and go sleep. Next day we want to wake-up early so we can enjoy strolling and taking pictures before the sun kill us. 

After simple breakfast and Colombian fresh guava juice (yummy) at beautiful rooftop of our hotel we are ready for some photo shooting morning. We have a couple of hours before it gets really hot and crowded. So where exactly are those spots where you can get the best shot?

1. Calle 37 – the most beautiful street of all Cartagena. Very colorful with lots of flowers. Most of my photos is taken right here. 
2. Abaco Libros y Café – iconic street with the Cathedral in background.
3. Getsemani street art
4. La Cocina de Pepina in Getsemani – the restaurant with a beautiful orange mural and an old bicycle in the front
5. Plaza de Trinidad, Getsemani 
6. The Street outside Santo Domingo Vidal Hostel – alley of exotic flowers
7. Las Tres Guerreras – beautiful mural art
8. Calle de San Juan (Café de Mural)
9. Calle San Andres
10. Calle de la Sierpe
11. The Rooftop of Movich Hotel
12. Carrera 8

Colombian food and where to eat

When we are done with pictures, we want to try some typical Colombian food. According to plenty of reviews I read on internet La Cocina de Pepina in Getsemani is supposedly the best restaurant in Cartagena to sample the fusion of traditional Colombian and Caribbean cuisine that is typical of Cartagena food. Even though the restaurant is a bit pricy for Colombia but still affordable and definitely worth to try! Dishes hover around 20-30.000 COP (roughly $7- $10). And on top of that, in front of the restaurant there is another amazing photo spot! We ordered what we were recommended by a waiter: a mind blowing fish soup (Sopa Caribe), Colombian sour Ceviche and delicious Posta Negra Cartagena – slowly roasted beef tenderloin with red onion, tomatoes, sweet peppers and cloves. All classical recipe from the Cartagena table. I have to say, Colombian food is delicious!

The best food in Cartagena:

1. Sopa Caribe – Colombian fish soup
2. Posta Negra Cartagena – slowly roasted beef tenderloin
3. Colombian Ceviche
4. Fish. All of the fish.
5. Colombian Shrimp Cocktail
6. Mango Biche
7. Jugos Naturales – fresh guava juice mainly!

The best restaurants in Cartagena: 

1. La Cocina de Pepina
2. La Casa de Socorro
3. Pizza Carbon
4. Oh! La La
5. El Boliche Cebicheria

After a great late lunch we need to go back to hotel, check-out and go to the airport. Tonight we want to fly back to Bogota and from there take the flight to Santiago de Chile and there another one to Easter Island. We checked the load before as we travel on stand-by staff ticket and seems there are still some seats available but when we reach the gate, flight is getting delayed and… full. But again, Avianca saved us! Because we are trained as cabin crew and we carry our licenses, they allow us to take jumpsuits at the back with operating Avianca crew! They are always so nice to us…  See you soon Colombia. In less than two weeks we are back!