IMPRESSIONS FROM BELGRADE

If I had to describe the capital of Serbia in just one word, it would be authenticity.

It wasn’t love at first sight. I came to Belgrade as a flight attendant for work. Our charter company had been hired to assist Air Serbia. In the end, I spent over half a year in the city, though with breaks in between (I also flew for other clients). When I was leaving Belgrade, I felt sad, as if I were leaving home.

I stayed at the Radisson Collection Blue Mill Hotel. A great location, an unusual design combining the original historic building with modern architecture, cosy rooms, and such warm and friendly staff that it felt nothing like staying in an impersonal chain hotel. I miss the excellent breakfasts every morning and the post-breakfast gatherings with the crew (that is, whoever wasn’t flying that day) in the restaurant over a delicious cappuccino and a cigarette. (Yes, in Belgrade – unlike in EU countries – people still smoke a lot, everywhere, even indoors.)

Belgrade is a big city. Grey. Worn-out. A little chaotic. Old trams, long retired in Bratislava, squeak along its streets. You can feel the remnants of communism, traces of the Balkan war, and the dusty glory of former Yugoslavia. Beautiful historic buildings are covered with ugly graffiti. The bleak architecture of communism stands in stark contrast to the charming beauty of the historic centre. Unkempt, chaotic streets, neglected facades, and abandoned, half-ruined buildings. What’s there to love about this city?

And yet, Belgrade eventually grew on me. I began to sense its unique atmosphere. Authenticity. Serbs are like that too – seemingly reserved, stern-faced, but tall, beautiful (Milla Jovovich’s father was Serbian), and proud. And beneath the tough exterior, very warm-hearted. You just have to “crack” them. I like that – more than the falseness, pretence, and ingratiation of some Asian cultures. It feels familiar. Slovaks are like that too. After all, we share the same roots – Slavs. Though Serbs are also Balkan people, with wilder and more fiery blood.

And honestly – what do they put in Serbian food that makes everyone so tall? I can recall three victorious basketball teams from the last Olympics: Americans, French, and Serbs. In the first two, the players are mostly of African descent; the Serbs are all pure Slavs. In my opinion, this part of the world produces the most masculine and handsome men.

Aside from its unique atmosphere and handsome men, Belgrade can boast an excellent cuisine, in which I taste not only Slavic influences (like grandma’s cooking) but also Balkan and Turkish ones. I recommend visiting the traditional restaurant Zavičaj on the charming Skadarlija Street.

Skadarlija is probably the most beautiful and picturesque street in all of Belgrade. The heart of the city. But beautiful, well-designed venues and hidden gems can be found scattered throughout the city. I enjoyed great Greek food at the traditional restaurant with a lovely garden terrace – Mezestoran Dvorište. Stovarište Materijala is an old, crumbling factory turned into a stylish pizzeria with really good pizza. And my absolute favourite place for great food and design is Smokvica. It’s one of those trendy spots in the city’s lively side streets, popular with young people. The best ice cream is at Sapore and at the beloved Crna Ovca locations, where they have truly unusual flavours and combinations. And the cakes – works of art – can be found at Mandarina Cake Shop.

Our hotel was just a short walk from the Galleria shopping centre. A gleaming place full of luxury boutiques, pristine restaurants, and cafés. It’s located in the middle of an area where large-scale construction of new, modern, and obviously expensive apartments is underway. Galleria Mall is expensive too – very expensive by Serbian standards and average salaries. But, as in every country, there’s a wealthy segment of society. Otherwise, who would shop here? It’s still worth coming for a casual stroll – there’s a beautiful pedestrian promenade along the Danube River, with a great atmosphere and bustling terraces full of locals. It really reminds me of our Bratislava Eurovea. Even the Danube matches.

It’s also nice to take a walk around Belgrade Fortress. There’s a lovely park in the area with panoramic views of the city. In some spots, there are chess tables set up – which reminds me of New York. And down below the fortress, there are charming tennis courts surrounded by lush greenery. It looks quite posh. I wonder where Novak Djoković trains?

The most famous Serb of all time? The charming tennis player, or the once-underestimated visionary Nikola Tesla? The latter has his own museum in Belgrade. In addition to the exhibits, the museum team gives live interactive demonstrations of several Tesla’s experiments. That makes this museum more engaging than most others.

Sometimes I miss you, Belgrade.