Geisha-spotting in Kyoto

Kyoto’s geiko and maiko (Kyoto words for geisha and apprentice geisha, respectively) are a window into Japan’s traditional culture. And I know where to find them…

Geisha culture is one of the oldest and most graceful forms of Japanese hospitality, dating back to the Edo period, with the women known for performing traditional art, dancing and singing. Today, it’s a dying art, but yes, real geishas still exist. The most known district of geishas is definitely Gion in the heart of Kyoto. Gion is not only the famous entertainment district but also the center of Japanese traditional arts. Packed with bars, restaurants and traditional teahouses, Gion is the most atmospheric in the early evening, when the lanterns are lit and apprentice geisha will flit about the back streets on their way to their appointments. However, there is also a lot to see here during the day. So let’s take a walk and explore Gion’s picturesque streets.

Our 29 hours layover takes place in Nagoya but with Japanese super fast Shinkansen bullet train (with maximum speed of 240-320 km/h), it’s not a problem to reach Kyoto within 40 min. The regular one way fare from Nagoya to Kyoto is 5170 Yen for a non-reserved seat and around 6000 Yen for a reserved seat. But trust me, reserved seat is not necessary. Round trip will cost you around 90 Euros. Once you arrive to Kyoto Station, you need to take a bus to Gion. It’s really easy. The bus terminal is just in front of Kyoto Station’s north exit. You can catch either bus service no. 100 from bus stop D1 or bus service no. 206 from bus stop D2. Both of these buses are very regular and make several departures each hour. The travel time is about 20 minuets for a flat fare of 230 Yen. Buses are boarded at the rear, and you pay at the front when you get off. The Gion bus stop is just across from Yasaka Jinja Shrine which is one of Gion’s best known sights. Other option is to take a taxi, which is again very easy. Follow the signs to Taxi terminal and just next to the main one you can find the stand for the taxi for foreigners with English speaking drivers and no difference in price! 

The most iconic street and most photogenic spot in all Kyoto is definitely historical Yasaka Street located in a heart of Higashiyama district. Most likely you have seen it already somewhere on internet. It’s the one with the oldest pagoda in Kyoto (built in 592) called Yasaka-no-to Pagoda, also known as Hokanji temple. Visitors can enter the pagoda up to the 2nd floor. And yes, that best photo spot of the charming streetscape with the pagoda can be found at the middle of the street. For the best atmosphere be there at the sunset but count with lots of other tourists. Early in the morning, it is very quiet area. 

Most geiko who live in Kyoto’s hanamachi (geisha neighborhoods) head out at about 5:45 p.m. to their evening engagements, which makes this the best time to see them. Its two hanamachi – Gion Higashi and Gion Kobu – are by far the biggest and most famous out of the five geek areas of Kyoto, the others being Kamishichiken, Pontocho and Miyagawacho. But be careful, not every geisha you meet in Gion is real geisha. It’s ok to dress like a geisha and in Gion you can find many studios offering this experience for coming tourists. (For example, Aya Studio in Gion offers a variety of packages ranging in price starting at 12,340 yen ($112), depending on how many photographs you want taken.) Multiple Kyoto tour guides and hotel staff share stories of tourists being delighted to meet a friendly geisha in the street, only to learn she was actually a costumed tourist from Hong Kong, Tokyo or Taiwan. If the geisha or maiko is overly friendly and posing on the road, chances are she’s not the real deal. Real geisha do not usually do that. Real geisha, when dressed up, are on the way to work or on the way back so do not have time in spare. 

Actually not. Authorities in Kyoto banned tourists from taking photographs after receiving many complaints about tourists disrespecting Japanese culture. Only photographers with an official permit issued by Gion-Machi South District Council will be allowed to take pictures in Hanamii-koji. Geishas are very respected in Japan. They are professional entertainers and people pay for their time. Asking them to stop so you can take a photo is basically asking for a freebie. Unwritten rule says that if you really want a picture, paparazzi is the name of the game. Do it so discreetly that none of geisha feel bothered. They are aware that they are subject to interest and it is a part of their lives, but still, leave their path open. 

If you want to meet real geisha and learn something about their culture, then there is a better option than just paparazzing them. Apart from buying the tickets for one of artistic geisha shows at Gion Corner, there is one more old school way to meet a geisha. Simply book yourself an evening at an ochaya (tea house). Not cheap, but certainly the most authentic geiko experience. Via Chris Rowthorn tours you can have private geisha experience like an exclusive dinner at kaiseki (Japanese haute cuisine) restaurant in the company of geiko or maiko. You will really be able to interact with the geisha, play traditional drinking games, and pose for pictures with them, all while enjoying a fantastic traditional meal in refined surroundings. Some companies offer a quick drink and a snack for prices only slightly cheaper than this, while others offer meals in large rooms with a few dozen strangers. Prices start at 70.000 Yen for 90 min. 

As Gion was the scene of much of the drama in “Memoirs of a Geisha” – the popular novel and film that reignited global interest in geisha culture – it’s not surprising that many tourists want to visit the area. But the real lives of geisha are nothing like the ones depicted on screen. First of all, geishas are entertainers. All geisha attend a special school throughout their careers, where they go through rigorous training in traditional Japanese arts, such as tea ceremony, flower arrangement and various musical instruments. Maiko apprentice needs to study for at least five years before she’s considered skilled and mature enough to become a full-fledged geiko. How to recognize them? Maiko will have decorations like flowers in her hair and wear high platform wooden slippers. And the most common question – do geishas sleep with their customers? Some geisha would have sex with their male customers, whereas others would not. Various terms arose to describe the distinctions; kuruwa geisha, for example, described geisha who slept with customers as well as entertaining with their skills in the performing arts.

But there are way more beautiful things to see in Gion than just geishas. About 10 min walk away from Kenninji temple (the oldest zen temple in Kyoto), there is beautiful Shioseo-en garden. This tranquil garden with typical Japanese design is hidden behind large walls, where you can escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. The wooden bridges and garden ponds make stunning photo spots, especially during Autumn. On the other side of the road, Kenninji temple is one of the only locations around Gion where you can have a photoshoot inside a temple. The most iconic bridge of Kyoto, where many tourists choose to take photos is called Gion Tatsumi Bridge. 

About other locations from movie “Memoirs of a Geisha” famous Sagano Bamboo Forest and Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine (the one with tunnel out of tightly packed orange torii gates) I already wrote in post Kyoto #1. Both are easily reachable by JR lines. The name of the stop is the same like the name of the sight. And both need to be visited as early in the morning as possible (6 a.m.), otherwise you won’t be able to take those beautiful photos you had in your mind. These two places are desperately overcrowded throughout the day. But once you are at Sagano Bamboo forest, make sure to pop in to Randen Arashiyama Station. It is on your way to the Bamboo Groove. As I missed it during my last visit of Kyoto, I wanted to see it on this trip. This picturesque old train station holds many little secrets, one of which is the colorful Kimono forest! I believe that there are over 600 decorated colorful pillars here. Another great location for your photo-shooting…